Thursday, December 23, 2010

wikileaks and - SAFE

recently found documents show that (JENS) really is in great danger... ;)

personal grading*: don't go on with it!!! 
*the article about the DANGER of personal grading that disapeard miraculously from the website - why? ;) 
(klick to make it bigger)

---dont go on with personal grading as this kills (JENS and his) grading-system!---  that puzzled me a bit cause jens can not rest to tell everybody that grades are personal, you shoud be brave and hummer, not take the grades from the guidebook, that grades are unimportant cause climbing is about fun and so on... BUT it got even worse:

the dateabase SABOTAGE and the f***ed up system*!!!
sabotage and f***ing up HIS system (klick to make it bigger)

JENS found PROOF for SABOTAGE. the proof that i was NOT using personal grading and therefore was f***ing up his system (business): i forgot ONE boulder (from the last 12months) to put in my "personal-grading"*. so i felt caught, you cant argue against hard facts, can you?!

as a brave and hummer i imediatly made the commanded changes in my scorecard to and in order to safe JENS, and the scorecards of some other point-hunters (who got all pissed when they saw i DOWNGRADED theier (soft) 8A/B boulders to 7A's) i see it as my duty to stop the climbing world from personal grading!


INSTEAD ASK JENS (or MIKE. mike knows too, cause he is a professional as well ) FOR THE "8A.NU-CONFORM-GRADE" ;)

jens or MIKE will SHOW you the way ;)

*the background to what did the "sabotage":  it was consequent personal grading - i took a "standart" for an 8A-boulder (great shark hunt) and messured all my other boulders i did on it: the result was quite weird. for example the riverbed in magicwood (which felt way easier then shark hunt) gets then a 7B... - perfect illustration that the (current) grading-system is about as reliable as long-term-swizzy-weather-forecast - and therefore shoud not be taken to seriously.... ;)

Saturday, December 18, 2010


what do you do if the ticio is looking like that:

bellinzona, close to cresciano - one day after climbing in the nice sun - dumped with snow - BAD for bouldering...

well make the BEST of it ;) one day after enjoying sun and bouldering in cresciano back home: up to 60cm of fresh snow, -16C, rock n roll ;)

how a real WINTER must be - i love it ;)

nice playground in my backyard - 40min drive and youre in a little freeride-paradise...;)

even a bit "alpine-style" - the way to go to enjoy 900m first tracks in waist deep powpow ;)
and yep, it was like THAT ;)

today it just does not stop snowing and tomorrow its gonna be sunny in the mountains - yepaaaaaa ;)

view out of our appartement, if its looking like that down here, how does it look in the mountains?! 

Thursday, December 16, 2010

from snow to sun, its up to you to choose - swizzy offers it all.. ;)

monday-wednesday it snowed a lot in the northern part, but the ticino in the south was protected by the alps from the bad weather.

waiting for the bus at home. no its NOT in the mountains its just some 400m avove sea level...

so getting the pads jump into the train - travel for 4hrs to the sun (2hrs by car)

shortly before cresciano. it was sunny, but windy too so therefore pretty COLD to climb

the sheeps in cresciano are wondering that somebody is WALKING up and not driving. they gave me theier nicest smile ;)

in cresciano i just played arround on various boulders, tried to stay warm and get back in shape after a 3week breake. i met paul (robinson) again who was trying the stunning dave graham compression test-piece: "confessions". we had a nice chat about this and that, dicussed some beta, looked out for some warming sun and he showed me some NICE footage of his ascent from the "dirt-leftexit". its nice to see that despite he is climbing all that super hard stuff he is still really down to earth.

the "killer-line" of confessions. if you are into comperssions-bouldering you MUST try that!!! as i have no pic from paul i post one from me ;) back in 2008 - i love the light! wished there woud be more of these in cresiano..., pic by angela wagner

paul was trying hard on "confessions" but somehow he had his problems to make the lefthand heel staying. so he went down on the crux-move again and again. after discussing some beta his left heel finally stayed just long enough to reach the crimp left hand - that was enough - controlling the wild swing was not looking to hard for him. and so he went on to top it out. nice one!!! and this time he did not messed it up on the last (6a) moves like some days before. i was allways sure that i woud be the only one to go down on that (6a) moves after coming from the sds... - well looks like i was not...;)

Tuesday, December 14, 2010


found that vid today on the bishop-bouldering-blog. not much climbing-action. BUT i liked it a LOT. its beautiful - inspiring - very NICE - makes me wanna climb and be there NOW ;)

Sunday, December 12, 2010

funny? UPDATE

some days ago i critized carlo for how he (and team america) produced the little vid called: "the greatest flasher". (depending on the perspective a "not-so-funny-video").

to be fair i have to say that carlo postet a nice comment on that topic on his webpage. i am very glad he was able to show some empathy (others seem not to be able).

"....I see how it [the movie] could be interpreted that way, and for that I apologize..."

and: "...this video was not created to reflect badly on Chris..."

like that i am positive that next time he (they) is producing a "funny-vid" he will not have to explain himself about his intentions again!

Friday, December 10, 2010

dai's swizzy lowdown - some details

as you can see on dai's blog and on the thelowdown (and on dai koyamada was in swizzy again. here some more detailed info:

despite pretty bad weather (as in spring some 50% of the days with rain) dai koyamada and his friend hiro had a pretty productive time in the ticino. they climbed pretty fast through a LOT of classic hard problems. hiro did amongst a lot others "confessions", "einfisch keinfisch" and "great sharkhunt". it was very nice to meet and climb with dai and hiro as they are two very nice and kind persons. as dai is not amongst the tallest (1.65) he has to find very often his own and mostly crazy beta - that process was very inspiring to watch.

at least it was frozen, so "tricky" was ok even without iceaxes ;) pic from dai's blog

beside the well published 2nd ascent of "big paw" and a fast ascent of "confessions", dai had some other nice ascents including the second ascent of "natural collateral" (dave grahams collateral without chipped crux-hold. more to come from that one shortly).

dai on the second ascent of "natural collateral", pic by dai's blog

and on one of that "wet" days he even went to complete two lines in chironico with two first ascents. he was able to combine the hard start of "blochx addiction" with the (recently broken) "los cursos" to create "JYA V12". and as that went down so well he completed the logical lines on that boulder by starting at "blochx addiction" and exit via "souvenir (climbed by fred in 1988!)" to climb "jyabara V13". well done!

dai on the "souvenir-part" of his fa of "jyabara", pic by dai's blog

then he made a rare repetition (3rd ascent?!) of the super fingery and hard dave graham testpiece "electric ant" from the original start. hopefully next time they also will be lucky with the weaher for once too.

dai sticking the (for his height even more) incredibly fingery and hard starting-move of "electric ant",  pic by dai's blog

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

funny? think twice!

i have great respect for what carlo and team america climbed in swizzy during the last few weeks (despite bad weather they really rocked!). they also made and published some nice footage (despite dont really getting the concept of sitdownstarts, but thats another story).

but now it looks like they really had to spend to much restdays inside. it started a while ago when carlo "defended" his downgrading of a new boulder (bella luna) chris webb parsons put up during one of these raining days in chironico. it was not the downgrading that puzzled me, it was "HOW" carlo explained himself. he missed to show any respect for chris's ascent and to the boulder itself.

chris on his fa of "bella luna", pic from chris
carlo says its not personal, but its at least not that clever to go that harsh after chris (and his new boulder) considering "the background" (chris is dating carlos exgirlfriend) - it just gave it a bad taste.

then it was "silent", but now carlo put out a new "funny" video. first it looks like an ironic little movie about the "flash-hype" - but if you think twice and take into account the "history" of the boulder then it gets a REAL bad taste! chris statement to the vid here.

       The Greatest Flasher from Carlo Traversi on Vimeo.

the start of the vid and the "shit"-ending have nothing to do with the "flash-king" but it shows what this vid was (also) about. i am sure (they) will pretend it was never their intention to do so - but if so, they badly failed in producing this vid, cause it (start/ending) speaks out clearly what the intention was. like a child that tries to defend his disrespectful behaviour in the past by just the same disrespectful behaviour. pretty embarrassing for carlo (and team america). but well, let them grow up, getting some life-experience and when the weather gets better, climbing will hopefully get back on focus. on the other hand its "great" to have finally a "reality-climbing-soap" going on - so we dont have to stay at desperate-housewives anymore ;)

but may carlo (and team america) will try to show a bit more respect next time they produce a vid they launch to the entire climbing-community. that was not professional at all and like that you dont bring climbing (and yourself) any further - think twice!


carlo posted a statement on that topic on his webpage. i am very glad he was able to show some empathy (others seem not to be able)

"....I see how it  [the movie] could be interpreted that way, and for that I apologize..."

and: "...this video was not created to reflect badly on Chris..."

hopefully next time he (they) is producing a "funny-vid" he dont has to explain himself about his intentions!

Sunday, November 21, 2010


swizzyweather is crazy sometimes. in chironico WHITE OUT  - is this allready the END of the chironico season?! for the last two weeks we had lots of rain what was bad, but SNOW is really BAD - it takes WAY longer to dry up.

webcam-view over chironico, 21-11-2010 - that looks BAD!!!
BUT there is still some hope: the weather-forecast does look pretty good for next week, hopfully its good enough to kill that snow again, we will see! for sure its still possible to climb on some boulders in the snow, but i dont really like it cause normally everything gets seeping wet or frozen. i prefer to make use of snow bit diffrently:

this is how to do it ;)  pic-source

but because of the mountains the weather in swizzy is HIGHLY regional. and as swizzy is so small it does not take too long to come from a snow-storm to sunny blue sky's. so you can sometimes just travel into antoher part of swizzy and find totally diffrent conditions and weather. like today in the valais.SUNNY and totally DRY. to bad i am lying at home with a flu :(

just a 3h ride from the snowy-ticino... sunny-martigny in the valais, area of the famous "radja"

Thursday, November 18, 2010

not 20 anymore...

...just one restday and bad conditions do not fit together tooo wellllllllll for me.during 2days from going down at the last move twice to not beeing able to reproduce the first move anymore. well i did the move after 3hrs of working on it (and nearly climbing the standingstart in between) with a diffrent beta, from which i thought it woud be too hard???!!! bouldering sometimes is totally iliogical ;) at least it was a beautiful sunny morning as we were warming up - that really saved the day ;)

that f**** starting-move ;) pic by ronny

and with three restdays i climbed again to the last move... but thats "nothing", the real business starts right there.... - its slowly turning into (another) epic ;)

it cant get better, well it coud if it stayed like that for two weeks... 

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

back on the full "fish-project"

as its cooling down in the ticino, i was psyched to try those funky moves of the full "fish-project" in chironico again. in spring i climbed the two parts isolated, but was not able to link them yet.

and it looks like this is going to be another story of how small changes in BETA can make all the diffrence - and well, climbing "ikarus/deadalus" may was a good "training" too ;)

"emi" going for the move i went down on link three times allready, pic by angela wagner

the result up today: i managed to get a new highpoint and climbed up to the last hard move of the full line twice a day. but this last move is the crux. its a cool (violent compression) but a HARD one if you come from all the way down there!!! i have to climb in that move with 90% freshness otherwise i just can not do it. at the moment i may am at 70/80%. therefore i have first to build up bit more of "resistance" for the 14 RAD, delicate and super powerfull moves in front. the climbing up to that last hard move is arround 8B/8B+ for itself and therefore it is great to be able to climb twice a day so far. nevertheless i woud have had preferred to climb it just once but then one move further up ;)

beside the resistance that i am building up there are two "discoveries" that give me REAL confidence for the full line:

FIRST: in spring i went down several times in the middle of the "keinfisch/kleinfisch"-part. finally i figured out just slightly diffrent beta, but it helped a lot and i did not went down on that moves anymore. like that i was for the first time able to climb all the way up to the last hard move of the full line.

the move which i finally "understand" :)  pic by angela wagner

SECOND: the starting-move was and is very hard for me. back in spring the move worked sometimes pretty ok and i was able to do it up to 2-3times a day. but then on the next session it happend that it took me 2hrs to stick it again. that was crazy and somehow frustrating and despite trying everything to figure out what details made the diffrence between sticking and failing i just did not get it. then suddenly last weekend i did UNDERSTAND what i have to do. nothing funky that time, just VERY pricise body positioning. that new "micro-beta" does not make the move easy, its still very hard for me. but now the move is at 70% and not at 10% anymore and like that i can save a lot of energy. energy that i need badly for that last move to get on top of that "fish".

to spice things up: after that last hard move, there is even a nasty mantle and a delicate slab waiting - you have to go for the full package - NO "candy's" will be served with that "fish" ;)

anyway its nice to see something "impossible" transforming into very "possible" once again :)

Sunday, November 7, 2010

"supertussi" and "macho, macho"

...after flying high with "deadalus" - i  escaped with my girlfriend from the arriving winter to the beautiful sunny fall in the southern swizzypart (ticino). we spent some time hiking, cycling and relaxing. we met some friends we did not see for a while and visited brione for a bit of bouldering too.
discussing beta on a brione-intermediate with andrea, the owner of the 1001-gite in cresciano

after repeating a lot of the the beautiful easy and intermediates i wanted to check out a project left of "atlantis" from which i climbed a straight-topout (first ascent of "supertussi") last year."supertussi" climbs up a very obvious nicelooking littel crack-line. the beta however is not that obvious. there are good holds but you permantetly have the "wrong ones" in your fingers. as i first tried to solve one of that "wrong-hands-problems" with a "karate-curx-move", my friends were just laughing at me: "you can NEVER do such a move..." was their comment. 1h later i had done the move for the first time - it was just a matter of the accurate micro-beta :) and that was exactly what i liked about "supertussi" so much. i just am not really interested in the "boring" left-right-left. it was another "3D-puzzle" to solve, which took some time but finally got put together.

That was back in 2008, but back then i was just not able to do the first move - no lack of beta - lack of power was the problem. last year i surprised myself by just doing the move first try back on the boulder and after 3days topping out "supertussi" ~8B'ish

back then when we figured out beta for the boulder we first wanted to exit to the right cause we did not found any usefull beta for the straightout exit. but then suddenly we found a way to go out straight ("supertussi"). so there was still the right exit to climb.

FA of "supertussi" back last year. its quite tricky and powerfull but if you get the beta the climb is pretty fun - exactly how i like it ;). the exit on the lip to the right ("macho, macho") is still an OPEN project.
the ending to the right felt harder then the famous "molonk" around the corner but isolated from the sds it went down pretty well. so i thought the right exit (over "apollo") woud be way easier then the straight-up and as i felt strong i thought that i coud do it pretty fast. my only concern was if i coud get the physical startingmoves together again. i was SOOOO wrong. the starting moves went down pretty ok, but after failing for three days on the last (2) move(s) i had to give in (for the moment). so much to "i just give that some tries - it will go down fast". consequently i gave the project the name "macho, macho" ;))

and the best after bouldering, supertussi's and macho's getting PIZZA ;)) 


Friday, November 5, 2010

"story of two worlds" - a walk in the park?!

as the lowdown / are reporting; paul (super strong) robinson has climbed "the dagger" in cresciano. congrats to him!!! as he posted he finally found pretty good beta and that it felt like climbing an 8A into an 8A to him. that is somewhat interesting news. i know that i used WAY to hard beta as i climbed "the dagger". may that was kind of "stupid", but i had so much fun climbing "my" crazy beta that i just did not wanted to change it. it was my own little challenge if i may coud link it that way - and (after some epic with cold fingers and going down once on the 4a exit) i did link it the crazy-way ;)

starting the crazy and hard 180-turn (with my "stupid" beta) to climb the second part of the "dagger" head first. GREAT, HARD FUN like that :) pic by angela wagner

anyway with my (to hard) beta for the first part the dagger i felt like climbing a (hard) 8B into a 7C/+. so despite knowing my beta for the first part was way too hard i am really wondering how (beta) one can bring that down to 8A???!!! BUT if there is a beta which brings the first part to the same difficulty as the second part, then i am super happy, as the second part really felt like a "walk in the park" for me (fits perfectly my compression-addiction). and as the sds shoud also be in the same grade (according to paul) THIS woud then be: 3 times a "walk in the park" for the full line - the "story of two worlds".

---> THAT means i am off to cresciano; i have to take a "walk in the park" ;)))

but there is a funny thing about "his math". according to paul: 8A + 8A = 8B. neverendingstory in avers (with the best beta/conditions) is supposed to be 8A + 7C+ = ???? what grade do we get by using that math? Hard 8A+ ?! but paul has 8B+ for neverendingstroy?! somehow that "math" does not really work - like many grading-stuff that does not work as it is supposed to... ;)

Thursday, November 4, 2010

out of nowhere - the (near)send of another lifetimeproject

you know these days when you climb with your friends, its not perfect conditions but just nice to be out bouldering. then you head to one of your projects on which you just want to "work" a bit on the moves, getting used to them again, getting strong again. the moves feel still hard but ok, even the sequences work BUT you KNOW you are NOT in THE shape for it yet.

unusual quickness; 2short sessions - beautiful "salamandre", ticino, pic by angela wagner

then you give a try for the crux-move (starting-move). first you miss (like most of the time) - then SUDDENLY you stick it, you continue - it feels hard but ok and somehow you just dont get that tired at all. you climb up to the LAST HARD MOVE - ready to STICK it - then suddenly your foot slips and you go down to your pads...

one of the few that did not end in an epic, may cause its just a 7C these days ;)
" freak brothers", chironico - one of the BEST, pic by angela wagner it was obviously NOT THE perfect day as i missed that last hard move. but it was still a GREAT day as i nearly climbed a supposed to be another "life-time-project" just like that. i never exprienced something like that before.(well there was some "work" i put in in spring. but that's a long time ago). but somehow that woud have not been "me" - i usually MUST do an EPIC out of (nearly) every hard boulder i try - and it just looks like i am on the best way to another EPIC... - or may not - i will know more after the weekend...

no epic here as well, just some tries for the GREAT "kirk windstein" - cresciano, pic by angela wagner

as a result of that crazy "NEAR-send", the endorpines just don't stop flowing through my body - cant sleep, want to BOULDER - PSYYYYCHEEEEEDDDDDDDD ;))))

Sunday, October 31, 2010


11pm : 3 good looking girls, a bottle of wine and YOU - what do you do?

1. the "obvious thing"

2. the "obvious thing"

3. you go to the sofa to make some new GU-caps


Friday, October 22, 2010

the "holy" grade

how coud i forget about the "most" important thing?

does anybody need a grade to describe bouldering like that?
well because it was never about a grade. it was about a dream: climbing a line, linking a logical start with a logical ending. despite looking WAY to hard first, the holds where there, so there had to be a way through it. spending hours and hours, days and days in solving an "impossible" puzzle and then push the body as far as it gets. that is what this boulder was about for me and then "numbers" disappear from itself - you just want to DO it - and it really does not matter anymore if 7A or 8A or 9A or what ever. 

entry moves into the hard moves of  part 1: close to the ground....
anyway, i will give it a try: it can be put it in pieces and compared to others: IKARUS is arround a 7C+ linking into a hard 8A - thats about the same numbers as the "neverendingstory, 8B+" in avers - just the other way round and ikarus/deadalus feels even more physical (and more fun to climb) to me.

...are often the hardest moves (the single hardest move at the beginning of the second part)

the next 5moves to gain the easy topout-part are "just" arround 6C/7A and from the bottom one coud think that this ads "arithmetically" nothing to the "NUMBER". but for me it was a BIG diffrence. up to IKARUS i climbed super safe and controlled. the next 4 "easy" moves i was totally out of controll and my "flight" up DEADALUS nearly "crashed". 

so can it be the SAME grade?! difficulty-wise it was something totally diffrent but as grades have "depth" its may the same grade. but where is the line between the grades? and if a grading-scale can not tell me such an obvious diffrences in difficulty then i just dont need such a "tight" grading-system! it woud be enough to state that DEADALUS is a HARD 8th grade boulder. the grading system may failed here (for me), but i can make a relation to how difficult DEADALUS felt compared to other boulders i did. you can find that relation/order in the column to the right where i put in the boulders i climbed. for me DEADALUS was for sure the hardest thing i climbed up today.

topping out on deadalus - better dont crash ;)

i will let others the "honor" to debate about that PRECISE grade that anyway just does not exist - i will stay with what FRED said in the "core"-movie about his "L'isola che non c'è" : "...i dont expect anybody to judge about me and my climbing; whats right, whats wrong. the GREAT thing about climbing is that there are NO rules from humans, just what nature gave to us. i saw the line, i liked it very much - and i climbed it..."

Monday, October 18, 2010


why 6years?! too stupid, too weak?! well may both ;)

as susten is a high-alpine area there is too much snow/wet holds sometimes up to july. then it gets normally too warm (not enough friction on crux holds). late october winter is back; snow, icing cold, closed road... - so not much time to climb HARD up there.

hmmmm, how does that work best?! the answer ocasionally can take some time...

usually you have just some 4-5weeks prime at end sept/october - if there is once some rain or snow, you have even less time. i first climbed the existing parts, got stronger, but then there were: broken holds, wet holds, injuries and other nice boulders you want to climb - all that can take some time...

why two names for "one" boulder?!

the part up to "traumland"-hold is pretty safe. the top out is not very hard, but if you blow it you may have a serious problem. so "ikarus" for the safe part, and "deadalus" for the topout seemed pretty appropriate.

after 5easy moves from down-right it STARTS
and it was EXACTLY like that on the send. as i climbed last friday for the first time to that finishing hold of "traumland" from the bottom-right, i climbed very solid, safe and felt strong.

BUT from there it seemed my "tank" was TOTALLY empty. the next 6moves to a REAL jug (and safe heaven before the easy topout) are maybe just 6C for itself - but you shoud not miss the last of them; a big move to a big jug. you cant spot that move anymore, if you miss it you swing out and you will "land" in the "bush" (full of stones) on the steep slope 3m below yourself. that was never a problem climbing in from the standingstart or the "traumlandstart" as everything was super controlled.

hard moves, but safe - IKARUS
but coming from the bottom-right these moves felt TOTALLY diffrent and they were suddenly OUT of controll. i may never fighted as hard on so "easy moves" before. on the move to the jug i nearly had a total "musculatur-failure" - my mind told me "no way you can do that", but i did not stop for a milisecond and just went all out for that jug - i got it. but then my fingers just started to open and i NEARLY lost the jug as i matched to it - so close... so there can be not better name than "ikarus" for the SAFE part and "deadalus" for the "not-so-safe-from-all-the-way-down" topout ;)

where you shoud not fall anymore, you cant really see it on the pic - but you will miss the pads and go a long way down... DEADALUS
and yeah, may "the most important" reason for 2names: like that (2names) you can register it twice and get twice the points on ;) but may the "boulder"-police will call you back because all that is not brave and hummer blablaballa... and as it is a pretty long boulder (6moves easy entry, 16hard moves, 10moves easy top out) - is that still a boulder? a route? a boulderroute? a routeboulder? ... you will have to register it as 6cB+b+C- or something like that. and as the move to the traumlandstart is a bit "dabby" and the following move bit "crouchy" - instead to get some more bodytension, flexibility and/or better beta - one can bitch arround that on internet-forums. AND... did i really climb it - no video-proof....puahhhhhh... ;)

Sunday, October 17, 2010

FINAL day - EPIC it was...

... as it was NOT the best conditions, 4C is normally toooo cold for 15+moves (for me)
and as i was SUPER CLOSE on failing on the top-out (noooo good if so)...

BUT - ... lucky enough I was for once ;))))))))

so over 6years i dreamed of it, now i have done it:

IKARUS and the topout to it: DEADALUS

in the crux-sequence of IKARUS/DEADALUS (IKARUS ends at the traumland, next hold right) and DEADALUS (tops out)

topping out DEADALUS

2 minutes after topping out DEADALUS, the fog arrived

2min later, there was just 2C anymore and fog (humid as hell) everywhere - impossible to climb anymore - EPIC ending ;)

1day later; looks like i was "just in time" ;)

but all that was somehow just an "intermezzo" on the way to the "king-line" through the whole boulder. i now have ALL the beta i need, so see ya next year again: HIGHLANDER ;)

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

epic? EPIC!

- yesterday i waited longer and the friction was perfect.

- my power was ON

- no mistakes, everyting went PERFECT up to the very LAST move 

- with 2 fingers on the finishing hold i went DOWN

--> so NO, lucky i was NOT!!!

i went not down because i was too tired, but i pushed so hard on the secondlast move, that my fingers on the right hand CRAMPED and they just did not fully reOPEN while i was deadpointing to to finishing hold - so i partly missed it - CRAZY-BUMMMMMER!!!

- and NO, i did not discover my final beta on sunday - it way was (may) yesterday ;) i allways struggled, sometimes more, sometimes less with the startingmove of "traumland". i never truly understood why it sometimes was going ok, and why it sometimes was harder. i had an idea, but was not able to find the precise solution. yesterday on my "near send" i got a cut, had to tape my finger and went on my second go down on that underclingmove cause i slipped offfffffff the tape. i retried the move to bring my tumb on the hold to not slipp from my tape and "a move in the move" was then the missing puzzle and it worked perfectly - i can now do the move totally safe and i know precisly what i have to do. finally i UNDERSTAND every single move and its coming down to just be STRONG enough - or not to get cramped fingers on the final move...

to SPICE things UP:  first i wanted to travel today to the frankenjura with my girlfirend for a week or so. but the weather looks like it turns bad over there. so we decided to stay in swizzy till at least the weekend - what gives me another LAST (as the winter will arrive at the weekend in swizzy too) chance on friday (thanks a LOT to angela - KiiiiiiiiiiiiSSSSSSS;)

SO after 60+days over 5years - with the final BETA - one more MOVE to do - ONE FINAL DAY - thats EPIC!!! (i allways have to smile when people are like: ohhh, three days of epic - and then i climbed the problem. thats WAY far from EPIC ;)

Monday, October 11, 2010

susten - EPIC

the new beta worked - i did the move i went down 7times allready - just to go down on the next move - with my tips on the second last hold... but the temps were just toooo high - 17C - on 2000m (CRAZY!!!) - i shoud have waited longer into the evening - i did not - slipped off - with the finishing-jug just in front of my face.

if you can hang arround with just a t-shirt at 2000m in the shade - ITS TOO warm to SEND - beginner mistake - kind off... ;)

... so i found an intermediate hold for that move - never used it before (for the last 6years!!!), just in case i start to slipp this the FINAL beta - or will the conditions be perfect for once - or will i be just strong enough for once - or will i be just lucky enough for once up there...???!!!

...we will see 2morrow... - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr -

Thursday, October 7, 2010

nightsession and new KEY beta

i was wrong; just 11days for the snow

to melt - thanks to CRAZY summer (25C) weather ;)

so off i was for susten again. due to a meeting i was pretty late (5.50pm) - but with 11C the grip was magic - while wurming up i felt great - compared to summer-time the grip was sooo good - i nearly had the feeling of pulling out some holds ;) 

but as i was not up there for 2weeks (the snow), i knew i first had to rebuild the power endurance (15hard moves in a row) and get used to the special moves again. to my SURPRISE i climbed up to my highpoint on my first go (again). but facing the second last move, i felt tired and was not not toooo disappointed to miss the hold. i know my body pretty well. it will build up the powerendurance during the next one or two sessions and then i can climb to that move totally fresh - what is highly necessary if i want to suceed. 

my "falling-move" (7times allready)  - from the slot left hand (not sidepull as seen here) to the nice hold righthand i allready have here.

i then did some laps to build up resistance and played arround a bit on my "falling-move", which is a big move from a jam-slot left to a good hold way right up. the problem is that i do have to do it a bit dynamic and if i dont hit the hold right or the feet cut off - and youre bit tired - youre offfffff. its no problem from the traumlandstart, but gets a bit to a problem from the lower start. i allready had three diffrent betas, but not one was really safe - or to hard - coming from the low-start and beeing not 100% fresh (after climbing arround 8B to that point) anymore.

then i found a "non-hold" 10cm before the good hold right hand. i never considred to use this one, it also was not brushed, never seen it white - seemed useless - but yesterday i figured out that this "non-hold" actually fitted perfectly for me. i can get this hold statically, and with the right bodyposition i get tension on the hold - and then i can push me with my left feet the 10cm to the good hold right hand. this beta feels WAY better than the other ones - its powerful, but more controlled and i really LIKE the move now  - CANT wait for SATURDAY ;))

traumlandblock at 10pm: way better than the gym: get your LED lamps out and climb ;)

CRAZY, 6years ago i climbed the first time over this moves - now i found my best beta - good things need some time ;)