Monday, March 31, 2014

driving crazy

...well after 3 rest days i was feeling strong with good skin, may it was a bit warm (17C), but i felt good and i went a muerte - for 3hrs i was going crazy at that start sequence of "insanity" -  but was again NOT able to link it - WTF??????!!!!!

looking back to the last two weeks an interesting fact is that if it was less then 15C i was able to do it, if it was warmer it just did not work. so i needed a "plus-15C-beta".....  i have some 10different ways i can grab almost static to the jug... if i go a bit dynamic i swing out - that last 2cm are just too much for me... i went back to re-check this start moves again (for the 1001time...) and i really managed to find a very hard but more "in control" way to do it - but at the end of the day i was too tired to link it all together...

finally found a "plus-15C-beta" for me???!!!
next day i was totally trashed, bad skin, super tired and it was very warm. i spotted my girlfriend and some friends. normally i don't climb (hard) stuff and for sure not the same thing as the day before on a second day. but i was curious if my new start beta would work... at 6pm it still was 18C - but together with my girlfriend i went back to the 101sector. 

second try i made it trough the start.... and fell off shortly after due to total fatigue.... hahahahah.... was this now just luck... or is this my new beta????????  interesting also that despite higher temps also the sloperrailpart felt way better then the day before.... - and angie pointed me to a way more secure beta at the end - all thats seems just to god to be true... i will make the "reality check" in a few days - stay tuned - fat cat is NOT giving in... ;)

Thursday, March 27, 2014

a strange night in ticino

despite three rest days i felt pretty tired and could not really feel "power" on the holds... i was not even able to do my regular warmup ("einfisch" to the lip) and the sequences of insanity did feel (way too) hard as well. looks like workdays somehow don't equal full rest days to me. even if i just have a "desk job" as a teacher it's may just too much stress... not enough sleep... but i am a pussy (as we discovered last time) so i stop whining here... -  but did i already mention that it was way more humid then the days before... ;)

exactly the position where i suffered from my total power-break-down and slipped from the right foothold... - one move from the resting-point...

but despite feeling like crap the colder temps and the the micro-beta i remembered for the start sequence finally worked nicely together. bouldering can be quite strange sometimes...

as i suspected i really did move my body in a wrong direction, i was too high and i did not place my hips close enough so i was not able to build up enough tension for my (non existing) toe hook to stay. it still took me some six tries to stick the start which is way too much and that already made me bit tired but i (hope) i have dialed that move again and will we able to repeat it much faster next session.

well after finally making my way trough that start again i suddenly found myself up at the sloperband of delusion and just one move away from the "resting point". but then i suffered from one second to another from a total power-break-down... i lost tension and lost a foothold... but that's ok, i needed just too many tries and power on the start before.

setting up for the big move in the "use-your-delusion-project"
its even steeper then it seems on the pic and the heel hook is just compression - if you loose tension then....
you go down... - but given the fact that i already felt super tired i should def. try again once i am fresh...

before climbing "insanity" to the lip from the third move again for "endurance-training" i went on to try the moves of the super powerful "use-your-delusion-project" - an old project i brushed some years ago (may somebody (dave?) already was on it 10years ago?!) which starts on the left of insanity and shares the same exit. it has BIG body tension moves and some crucial hook's which need to stay - so it will help to be BIG on this one (again). there was some chalck and ticks on it - so looks like someone had tried it recently... james? as he obviously did not send this one in a session it must be 8C or harder.... ;)

i tried it a few times in the years back, came close to the moves but never really did them. i was close on the moves again this time... and given the fact that i felt already super tired after my total power breakdown in insanity i may should try once when i still feel fresh... VENGA :)

Sunday, March 23, 2014

mind games (again)...

drama is in full flow again...what else could it be... ;)

i resisted the temptation to hike up to sustenpass as it was just too dangerous and ticino had great weather as well. so off i was to chironico...

second session and already twice up at the sloperband of the delusion-part... just a matter of one or two more days... hahahah.... ;)

it all started so good! on my second session this season on "insanity of grandeur" i made it already up to the big sloper of the "delusion"-part... (pic above) but did let go as i was too scared to go on as i never did the final mantel before... - YES i am a real pussy - but after the last year and two really serious injuries and close to 12months of rehabilitation i just did not wanted to take any chances!  i got the rope - and guess what - i did flash the topout.. HAHAHAHA :) next try i made it again up to the big sloperrail but slipped off a hold. so that was a great start and i was very happy that my hamstrings worked very well. they are still sore for a day or two after the session, but it's perfect training for them to get back to full power again.

as i usually need four to five days to adapt and normally one day after another i get stronger on a project i was very positive for the next few days! "normally"...  but this time it was not "normally".... the heat arrived (up to 22C... and no cold nights anymore...), i felt tired from work... and it was too dry (NO JOKE!!!)... and at least a dozen more very good excuses why i just sucked ;)

then suddenly not being able to climb the start sequence anymore...

Suddenly i was not able to make that super hard start-sequence anymore. every day it got worser instead of better. but i kind of "knew" that scenario. it was the same as two years before... as it was getting warmer i suddenly was not able to do this sequence anymore.

third day i was there at 8am in the morning but it was already 13C (warm!!!). crazy march weather in ticino. it just peeled my skin of my tips....  then after 3hrs - why after 3hrs...... why not earlier....?????!!!!! i made the move but then i slipped off a foothold????? and then again my heel slipped... and some days later i slipped again off a foothold... every time things got worser.... till i just did not do that start at all anymore. if i just could keep that toe hook for that start. 5cm more reach and i would do that sequence every time... - even for warm up (and would it downgrade to "soft" 7B of course.. ;) - like that crazy strong american mutant named Jimmy X who did that mind-blowing stunt of climbing "insanity" (and some more 8B+/C's) in ONE SESSION - may i should get surgery to get that 5cm more reach and climb everything in a day?! but i am quite sure this would end up with me needing specific surgery for every boulder problem i try... - so may i just get my ass off the couch and get stronger... transform the weak pussy into a mutant... i will do that just after that two pieces of chocolate-doublecream-cake, the shiatsu massage and the pedicure... - i promise... ;)

then get the start for once but slipping off the biggest footholds...

to make things even better i managed to ripped off a part of the intermediate hold from the startsequnce... but its still there, its still possible nothing changed too much... hopefully it stays.... at least the cold is on its way back...  WINTER IS COMING - hopefully the white walkers will hold bit back... ;) to be continued.... 

and finally ripping off a part of that super good intermediate hold at the start... but it's still there, did not change anything... still HARD  ;)

Sunday, March 9, 2014

VERY tempting

PERFECT conditions up at sustenpass - but the approach is still too dangerous (very high avalanche risk at the moment!). as the weather in the south finally is great and stable i was in ticino not only for powder and freeriding but for some climbing again as well. i have something to finish up in ticino, had two great sessions and i was already getting close yesterday - so maybe i can make it up to sustenpass next weekend.... - but when i am getting "close" this usually means DRAMA will go on for another few weeks/months/years... - you know i can climb nearly everything up to the last move... will see how it works out this time.... - wish me some luck... ;)