Monday, July 19, 2010

can't wait for fall

therefore i will take my summerbreake right now. get some recovery from a long and hard season in which the weather just took me down three times in a row soooooo close before sending some of my nicest and hardest boulders ever. so hopefully it will be like in the past few years and i will come back in fall just a little bit stronger. and combined with slightly better weather i may will be able to do one or two more moves on diffrent boulderproblems, which will be enough to send...

for folks who are in the search for "neversummer" - this woud be the place to be right now, soooooooooo beautiful and NO crowds - just some nice and super motivated locals:

A few days at Castle Hill from derek thatcher on Vimeo.

and thats how i will escape the summer-heat in a non-climbing-way - fuerza... ;)

Thursday, July 15, 2010

"magic" wood? NO: "shitty" wood!!!

"main trail" 10m below "octopussy" - watch down left...

can you believe "that"?! shitting right on a  main trail?! at least there woud be a big hole 10!!!cm left to dispose... but nope, just let it on the trail - nice present thanks!!!

so just go on, waste that wood: drop ALL your cigarettes to the soil, also your tape, chalk all the holds with 1m of chalk but NEVER brush a hold, dont dare to say hello, bring more beer, and very important: ghettoblasters!!! lets have PARTYYYYYYY - and let that idiots of "locals" clean up the SHIT after you. i know, "noooooo climber" will do shit like that, but then where is all that "shit" coming from??? there are just climbers in that magic shitty wood!!! 

i wish everybody a nice "shitty" summer in the wood - i am off to a diffrent playground

Saturday, July 3, 2010

no summerbrake yet - instead doing THE move...

...from the sustenproject for the first time on link but went down 3moves (on the last really hard move) away from the top-hold of the second (from three) part of the "highlander-project".

on the move to the right-hand-hold (in the pic above) i went down - "highlander" goes up and left (--> HARD), "ikarus" ends 30cm to the right on a big jug (traumland-end) and "deadalus" will be the topout to ikarus and exit via "schön wie..." just dont talk about that... - everything clear ?! ;)

on the one hand i was happy to get to a new highpoint. on the other hand i am starting to get a bit annoyed by NEARLY climbing so many (personal) hard problems this year. (cause even the "easy" straight top-out(deadalus) will be superhard for me. i am not so sure about the "highlander" anymore. will be SUPER hard).

but mainly it was kind of a brakethrough: first i found (despite trying it allreaday for years) again slightly better beta for the staringtpart. second i really start to understand this strange and hard cruxmove on link - and i climbed so far despite it was way too warm (+20C), with bad grip and all that after climbing allready 4h on and off that problem that day.

so hopefully i will get some windy and under "30-celsius-days" during the next two weeks or then i will definitely take my summer-brake and come back in fall - we will see.