Tuesday, November 26, 2013

no highlander, no hasi, no candy bar, no nothing...

2day “epics" are well common these days where everything seems to be (has to be) "second go, 5min, soft..." ;)  One could think that after 3days with no success some people's climbing life starts to fall apart... what if there are not enough points at the end of the season... falling back in the ranking is NOT an option... crisis... disaster... OMG... - as this was my third season (year) in a row where I managed to go down on the last move of my highlander project (counting 10 since i first climbed on it) and i just climbed "nothing" again... - may I should have jumped off a big cliff already years ago... - but hey; I am still here and still can smile... - and i have an even harder project by now... - must be something totally wrong with me...  ;)

After some snowy days weather turned good and warmer again - just in time before winter would hit hard with an arriving big low-pressure-system. But it was too cold for the highlander, so again a season ended on that %ç*ç last move - but no injury and the confidence that despite two serious injuries over the last 12months I still am able to pull down pretty hard!

The day looked great for a last chance in the "hasi-project". The road was already closed so off I was on my bike.

i got one last day for the "hasi-project"... how beautiful it was up there :)
I was pretty sure I would send the project if I got this one more day! I just slipped off the last move the last time, I felt strong, strong enough to even compensate some problems (like wet holds...), I was rested enough, I had ok skin, I had eaten well, I had slept well, even Nico made his way up that day and gave me some support. Arriving at the boulder the snow was gone, the exit was wet but I was able to (kind of) dry it. So there I went for glory... ;)

CONTACT.... (can you see the water-drops left of me... melting snow on the copout...)
I may climbed 6times into the crux, my heel slipped twice while setting up for the last move.... it just did NOT HAPPEN, no matter how hard and much I tried???  I could not believe what (not) happened, but somehow I just did not feel my body building up any tension, I felt like a marshmallow, a very strange feeling I never had before!!! I did not feel week, I just did not feel tension in between the holds....???

The grip was pretty bad, I had to dry up nearly all the holds... but that was not it... Nico sent "Marrakesh" (twice) and looked strong (well done!) - may it was this shitty day in Murgstal few days before..., where I managed to rip off my skin on Entlinge and somehow managed to tweak my pectoralis as well on Bourgonne (as it was raining an I was going crazy in the wetness...). May I should have just stayed at home to be "safe" from all the possible threats that would spoil my last chance up there... but as many excuses I can find it does not change the fact that: I just failed again... FTW???!!!

thats how all the attempts ended..
After going crazy with one attempt after another Nico and I were standing in front of the boulder and after some discussion decided it would be anyway more logic to start 3moves lower/to the right (as I started pretty stretched out and tweaked...). This will ad another three-move-compression-7C/8A to an 8B+... it will make you already tired for the following compression-moves and will put quite some spice on top of the full line. But as these moves are just so freaking powerful intense and delicate and good - I am kind of glad I did not make it to the top from the higher start... - so i can go, climb and test myself again on it... ;)

SO I have another great project for which I just can't wait to go back. Big moves on ok holds, if you loose tension you are off. I can really fight and press with all my body till i explode, but i still have to be very precise and move perfectly between the compression holds. for me the climbing is close to perfection, not too steep, not too vertical - my ultimate project - could not get any better (other people will feel different of course) - so i am VERY glad i found that one - still smiling when i just think of that moves ;) just a pity I now have to wait 6months to climb on that holds again. So I will train my ass off to get that little bit stronger. That will hopefully be enough to send that beauty next summer and take the highlander home as well in the process - and did I already mention it? There is a possible 8B/+ intro as well...  - but that will be something for the next generation... not for an old fat hasi like me... ;)

i could handle the snow, but not the cold... i will have to wait till may/june 2014... 

Monday, November 4, 2013

failed twice..

failure one was so typical: when i am finally fit and strong as never before something else goes wrong... at least i did not injure myself as i managed to do it last year! but weather turned cold and humid... i just could not feel the holds anymore... and it looks like i just don't get another (warmer) day for that "half-move" more and i have to wait another 7months to try again on the highlander. just one day too late with my peak fitness.... *arrrrggggghhhhhh* - or was it that 10days i missed with a sliced fingertip... or the 10days of constant bad weather in "prime season"... or that spring/summerseason i could just climb with my right leg cause of a broken meniscus (and still managed to go down on the last move....)  - just excuses - just not strong enough - yet - weather i can't change - but my fitness i can - and i WILL... ;)

only 5minutes of sun was not enough for me - just too cold - but it's beautiful... isn't it... still after 10years... ;)

so next year (if i don't get it in may/june) i will not make a summer-breake... instead use the "colder mornings" of the warm summer days to fight my "cold-finger-problems". BUT the downside then is that the friction is usually quite bad, there is a lot of rain and so the holds seep forever... but when you are just strong enough you at least can go "à muerte" - and kill it... ;)

failure two was typical as well: "there is just no lucky-strike" for me up there! as i went for the "verschärfter hase"-project and even managed to stick the crux move for the first time - i just dry-fired of thanx to my frozen fingertips.... F*** THAT!!!! but i will be back... at least that one WILL go down this season - even if i have to hike up through 1m of snow and climb it with gloves - WORD!!!

crux-crimp... needs some body tension to get there...

catching it totally extended... must be way easier if just 5cm taller... but love it the way it is ;)

big second last move from that shitty crimp left hand.... to a ok sidepull right hand

holding the swing....  so close to victory...

just dry-fired off the ok side-pull righthand - still crimped right hand... *outsch*

no comment... ;)