Sunday, November 13, 2011

going CRAZY !!!

at home it was all grey with fog all over the country, driving up into the mountains the sun was pressing through the grey...

and then when you are high enough its all sunny and soooo nice up there in the mountains.

it was such a nice day again up there in the mountains, but unfortunately i was unable (again) to take advantage of the nice conditions. i am slowly going CRAZY... my fitness is getting better and better but every time someting goes wrong. since about 3weeks its most of the time about COLD fingers that stop me. this time i went down 3times (after the "ikarus-part) on the last hard move('s) of the highlander - thats CRAZY!!! for me its normal to have just one, may two "ok"-goes in a hard, longer project. i never would have thought i would be able to climb 3times a day so far (the "ikarus-part" is more ore less an 8B+ each time - but may just an 7C... i kind of totally loose it with the grades...). back at the start of october i was even faaaaaaaaaar away from beeing able to climb on a second try through the first undercling-crux. now i can do that 3times a day, with just a 10min rest... thats nice and a great level of fitness, but i don't want to climb x-times a day a hard boulder - i want to climb ONCE through that whole line!!!

-first go: i went down dryfiring off the second las move with (not too) cold fingers (no need to mention that this did not happen for years..., so WHY now?!)

slipped off... last time i did this at that move was some 2years ago - and there was more blood last time...

-second go: i had absolutely numb (COLD!!!) fingers and just slipped off in the last crux.

-third go: after a 5min rest i wanted to know if i had just rested too long for my second try and went for a third try which ended at the same position with even COLDER fingers... F*CK IT!!!

what gets more and more disappointing is, that its no longer a question of power or beta, its just about how i can avoid too cold finger-tips - and that just LAME!!! during summer that problem would be a bit less of an issue (but not too much as you can see further down the text) but then the grip is so bad that i am practically unable to climb through the first crux... so it looks like its a pretty small window of conditions (10-15C) for me.

i know that problem of cold fingers since a long time. its not just about outside temperatures, its about pressing the blood out of the fingertips on boulders longer then 10+ moves. every time when i go down in the "highlander-crux" my body is so warm i am literally sweating, just my fingertips are ice-cold.

i can remember the days back in 2005 in magic wood when i went for the FA of what would become "one summer in paradise". it was august, summer and hot and i went down for days on the very last moves with numb fingers. it was the same with "the dagger" in cresciano - i finally climbed it when it was 16C in march and everybody else was like "its impossible to climb hard in cresciano today".... and it was the same with the "fisch"-project in chironico this early spring - i went down there about 20times on the last hard moves cause i could not feel anything anymore... so how to solve that problem?!

may it would help when not so much kilos (around 72) would press the blood out of my tips.

most of the people climbing in the 8B/C - area are at least 5kg (or 10kg) lighter then me (ever trained with a 5-10kg vest - thats A LOT!!!). but i am really not into eating pizza without cheese ore just green salad without any dressing.

but NO DRESSING, dressing is evil... ;)

i really LOVE to EAT, especially desert and good food and enough of it is just too much life-qualtity for me then to climb a "+" harder... so i have to find another solution.

gives you POWER... yammmiiii ;)

the weather stays nice but its getting way COLDER up there in the mountains end of next week... and so i am going CRAZY as i don't want to wait till next years summer... arrrrghhhhhhhh!!!


  1. Hi Martin, I was reading your blog about your cold fingertips and was wondering if you ever tried these "hand warmers"?

    Maybe it works to keep your hands/tips warm.

    greetz, Patrick

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  3. heyo patrick,

    thanx a lot for your comment. i know these "hand warmers" thanx, they work quite well. but my problem is not that i have cold fingers when i start (they are burning hot) - the problem is that while climbing i press out all the blood and then they get cold... and as there is no WAY to rest and to shake them out, i cant use the "hand warmers" while climbing...

    greez, martin