Saturday, November 19, 2011

DRAMA is everything... - keep cool(d)

as i needed a break (for this year?!) from the "with-numb-fingers-missing-thelast-move-drama" from sustenpass, i went to ticino to give the "fisch-project" a session to get the moves dialed again.

to my big surprise the HARD (~8B) 4-start-moves went down on my first go of the day and i felt surprisingly solid doing them. everything went perfect for once.

the (for me) super hard start. this 4moves work sometimes pretty well and sometimes they are just impossible... and you don't really know why... they can make you CRAZY!!!
pic by

but as i have not climbed the delicate and complicated moves for a while it felt kind of "unreal" and it was like i could watch myself climbing from the outside... strange!!! arriving at the "einfisch/keinfisch"-start i was not tired at all and had not frozen fingers as well. i was even able to quickly shake out my fingers. i could not remember one try in the past on which i arrived on the start of that finishing 8A+ and was feeling as strong. i therefore knew i had a very realistic chance to top it out and went "a muerte" - 4moves later i was there on the last hard move to the lip - could not feel my fingers anymore (a nasty crimp pressed the blood out of my tips ---> COLD!!!) but i kept going - and slipped off going to the lip (totally numb fingers...) - second best TRY EVER for me! looks like sustenpass was good training!

slipped off with numb fingers while going for the edge i have with my right hand in the pic. pic by

second try of the day i started from the sds (not the laydown) and went down on the same move as on the first try again (numb fingers, but also tired this time as well). fitness IS GREAT!!!

as it seems i can do and climb whatever and wherever ---> i can climb into the last hard move(s) and go down with numb fingers... BUMMER!!! and when it is WARM i can not do the hard startingmoves anymore... but hey that was just 1afternoon... i will be back and the DRAMA can take its way in ticino again... ;)


  1. Hey Martin, das hört sich duch mal gut an! Es ist immer wieder erstaunlich, wie gut Abstand zu einem Projekt tun kann. Spannend wie ein Krimi sind ja deine Updates! Keep it up und nid lugg lo :)
    Und - Ja - das mit dem Video holen wir noch nach. Vielleicht auch mit diesem Projekt? Habe grosse Motivation für gute Clips!

  2. Und... Nicht "Drama is everything", sondern "Dream is everything" :)

  3. ok, dream and drama ;) und ja abstand ist ja schon gut, aber nicht wenn du nur noch 5cm bis zum rettenden henkel hast... da kann mann eben nicht lugg loo ;) see ya, martin