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| on the way to susten.... |
RESULT ----> it even started to feel "easy"... BUT i was going down twice on the last moves with ice cold, totally numb fingers... its clearly not the power anymore, may i should climb with gloves ;)
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| may climbing with gloves would help to avoid cold fingers.... ;) pic by angelawagner.ch |
as i went down, my hole body was sweating. my hands were warm. just my finger tips ice-cold! it seems that temperature really does not make the big difference for my cold fingers. its just that its pressing all the blood out of the fingertips, what is resulting in cold, numb fingertips (i know that problem of cold fingertips for several years by now, and also in the "fisch-project" i went down several times at the very end because i was not able to feel the holds anymore).
i can't shake out my fingers to bring back the blood. so the question is how i can avoid too much pressure on the holds. well with 10kg less i would have hell of a lot less pressure on these holds - still too much "mousse au chocolat" in my system as it looks like....
i can't shake out my fingers to bring back the blood. so the question is how i can avoid too much pressure on the holds. well with 10kg less i would have hell of a lot less pressure on these holds - still too much "mousse au chocolat" in my system as it looks like....
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| just a lot of air says angela... ;) pic from wiki |
LAST IDEA i have: i recently made a small change in beta to climb a more secure beta up there in the crux. but it seems that (because of smaller, incut holds) that this beta even takes more blood out of my tips. so i will change back to the more insecure beta in order to hopefully avoid cold fingers for another move... - its just ONE MOVE - as i feel way stronger then before, it may is even not as insecure anymore...
right now its raining up there, but if i am very luck i will get another try next week....
and "GU" is going totally out of control up there at susten....stay tuned for more info!!!
and "GU" is going totally out of control up there at susten....stay tuned for more info!!!
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| "GU" climbing in norway. pic from baboonmaster.com |
ps: my shape cant be so bad. after falling twice up there in the highlander-crux (makes 2times an ~8B+ and reclimbing the standingstart ~8A right afterwards) i quickly checked out "Reykjavik, ~8A+/8B" (the prow next to "sputnik"), a short, powerful, nice 5mover. i flashed the crux-move rather easily and i was quickly super close to send. but then the power was just off... seems i am at everything super close, but on nothing close enough at these times... after this i was so tired, i even had problems to fold the pads together....... so resting and going BACK...;)
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