after a 20min rest, "gu" and his american friend motivated me for another try. first i did not wanted to, cause every time i tried that i was just too tired for the upper crux. but today the second try was nearly the better try, i climbed more fluent, more relaxed and the undercling-crux went even better then on the first try. arriving at the crux i switched to the "direct-crossing-beta" cause i felt that i got cold fingers again and just wanted to be faster then the cold.
|second-try-beta. its faster but you need FRICTION. the crimp i am going with my right hand is the one i missed to bring my indexfinger on. pic by ikuko serata.|
10sek later i was up there from the standing-start, crossed, hit the crimp perfect and did the move with ease!!!
slowly i start to think i am may just too stupid for that boulder.... its getting really "unreal" - but somehow i like it... ;)