i went for a try but while climbing into the hard part i felt like i was sliding out of every move... WTF???? i kept pushing hard and did not let go as i still felt strong. arriving at my CRUX i greased around even more on the slopey holds and finally just slipped off. after a 15min rest the same result at my second go... WTF???
|just from standing around - my tips turned wet... NOT PERFECT!!!|
well it was not that humid at all, but my SKIN WAS so SOFT that the "water" just started to press through under pressure. it looks like i did not used enough ANTIHYDRAHL... - what a BEGINNERMISTAKE - did not happen since many weeks and for a moment i did really got ANGRY like hell about myself - HOW STUPID i was!!! (but if i use too much antihydrahl and get too hard skin i slip off the holds as well, so also this needs to be perfectly timed...)
well, this time "too soft SKIN - WHAT WILL HAPPEN NEXT?! may its really time to give it a breake till next year - but its just that one move.... GRRRRRRRRRRR.
after this disappointment i went to check out the sds to "pitbull" again. its not yet climbed but on obvious project. i tried arround to find beta since a few days (was my normal after-programm after falling down twice on a day on the last moves of highlander). last week i finally found something that could work. yesterday i went all crazy and finally in the pitch-dark at around 9pm i could do ALL the moves but one (getting my feet out), but i was close on that one as well!!!
you actually don't climb the "pitbull"-moves after the sds - you climb it totally straight up (it should be possible to climb the "pitbull-moves" as well, but i like the straight-up line more). its a line/boulder of itself as you do not one move the same as in "pitbull". in the pic you see the line/holds: you start sitting with holds 1,2 (nr.2 is the starting hold of pitbull as well) - bumping up to a sidpull-pinch (3) getting left heel in and then comes a super hard and far move to an ok crimp (5) - double-heel-hook and take righthand to sidpull (4) (HARD) - hold the SWING (HARD!!!). wild compression again with a hard toehook to get hold 6... and the easy top out...
in contrast to "pitbull" i call it now the "schneehäschen-project" ;) its SUPER HARD heelhoking-compression-moves at my total span limit (easier when youre taller/harder when youre smaller then me) - its totally my preferred "compression-style" - 6hard moves at my limit - LOVE IT and i am super HAPPY to have a NEW project which is not 15+ moves long... ;)
but it looks like this is getting really HARD and i have to try it fresh next time and not climb twice through the HIGHLANDER before - and get some HARD skin as well... ;)