Wednesday, November 23, 2011

beginnermistake and the "schneehäschen-project"

yesterday the forecast called for milder temps at sustenpass again. so after working in the morning i quickly (2hrs drive, 40min hike) made my way up to sustenpass again. and it was compared to other days quite warm, that was great news! and as i took 3restdays since ticino i felt great and light while warming up for the "highlander".

i went for a try but while climbing into the hard part i felt like i was sliding out of every move... WTF???? i kept pushing hard and did not let go as i still felt strong. arriving at my CRUX i greased around even more on the slopey holds and finally just slipped off. after a 15min rest the same result at my second go... WTF???

just from standing around - my tips turned wet... NOT PERFECT!!!

well it was not that humid at all, but my SKIN WAS so SOFT that the "water" just started to press through under pressure. it looks like i did not used enough ANTIHYDRAHL... - what a BEGINNERMISTAKE - did not happen since many weeks and for a moment i did really got ANGRY like hell about myself - HOW STUPID i was!!! (but if i use too much antihydrahl and get too hard skin i slip off the holds as well, so also this needs to be perfectly timed...)

well, this time "too soft SKIN - WHAT WILL HAPPEN NEXT?! may its really time to give it a breake till next year - but its just that one move.... GRRRRRRRRRRR.

gu climbing on "pitbull, 8A+" - which is climbed as a standing-start.
i found a way for a sds which climbs  not over the "pitbull-moves" but straight up - GREAT COMPRESSION STYLE!!!
the markings to the left show the holds of the "schneehäschen-project"... hold n.5 broke and is better now, between 3 and 4 was a hold i ripped totally off - harder now... may i am still too fat, too much chocolate in the system ;)

after this disappointment i went to check out the sds to "pitbull" again. its not yet climbed but on obvious project. i tried arround to find beta since a few days (was my normal after-programm after falling down twice on a day on the last moves of highlander). last week i finally found something that could work. yesterday i went all crazy and finally in the pitch-dark at around 9pm i could do ALL the moves but one (getting my feet out), but i was close on that one as well!!!

you actually don't climb the "pitbull"-moves after the sds - you climb it totally straight up (it should be possible to climb the "pitbull-moves" as well, but i like the straight-up line more). its a line/boulder of itself as you do not one move the same as in "pitbull". in the pic you see the line/holds: you start sitting with holds 1,2 (nr.2 is the starting hold of pitbull as well) - bumping up to a sidpull-pinch (3) getting left heel in and then comes a super hard and far move to an ok crimp (5) - double-heel-hook and take righthand to sidpull (4) (HARD) - hold the SWING (HARD!!!). wild compression again with a hard toehook to get hold 6... and the easy top out...

in contrast to "pitbull" i call it now the "schneehäschen-project" ;) its SUPER HARD heelhoking-compression-moves at my total span limit (easier when youre taller/harder when youre smaller then me)  - its totally my preferred "compression-style" - 6hard moves at my limit - LOVE IT and i am super HAPPY to have a NEW project which is not 15+ moves long... ;)

but it looks like this is getting really HARD and i have to try it fresh next time and not climb twice through the HIGHLANDER before - and get some HARD skin as well... ;)

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