Tuesday, May 31, 2011


... 0.5 move(s) further - it gets better and better - i slipped offffff the cruxhold - ahhhrghhh - HARD bouldering is soooo much fun - still... ;)

one move before the old, fat, lousy boulder-tussi dryfired off the crux-hold... ;) pic by angela wagner

f**ed up the first go. it went so well that i "forgot" some cruical micro-beta and missed the first crux. second go i repeated  the "ikarus"-part, but then i slipped (dryfired) off the cruxhold as going left for the "highlander" - but once more i think i found slightly better (safer) beta for that move...  AGAIN and AGAIN i am "cheating" my way through HARD moves ;)

Wednesday, May 25, 2011


hahaha, its turning into another EPIC again... every day ONE move further (no not two, that woud be WAY to easy). CRAZY how fast you can go down from 80%power to 0%power - today it took me not even 2seconds... i need one more second and i will do the crux. AND some FRICTION woud make things not as complicated... as the ending is not a walk in the park as well!

Tuesday, May 24, 2011


....2 hard moves to go (and a nasty 7A exit on which you can FAIL when you are really tired) from all the way down). I AM getting CLOSER - every day one move... (no presents here as well)

the warm weather has also some nice side-effects like the snow at sustenpass is allready gone again and the "highlander" is just a little bit wet. just the peaks remain in white.

so very, very nice up there at sustenpass. at least till the street was open again..., pic by angela wagner

after climbing "highlander" allready three times from 2 hard moves in i was wondering how it woud feel from the SDS. and its crazy what this 7B in front can do to you. its a similar experience like with the "fisch". from
two moves inn everything felt controlled and solid. and then from the sds the crux suddenly felt HARD, and my tank got really empty short after the first crux and i droped at the beginning of the second crux.

 on the following move i went down last saturday.
one more move and "deadalus" continues straight up and gets easier. "HIGHLANDER" goes left, following the structure you can see and does not get really easy at all! pic by angela wagner
BUT i climbed it to the 3rd last move last week. and on saturday i allready felt stronger and climbed one move fruther, nearly doing the second last move as well. i am clearly buliding up resistance and after just 3sessions i am at a highpoint i needed 10+sessions last fall. and very important: i even remembred a slightly easier (tricky hooker) beta for the second crux. i tried that beta allready some 5years ago for the "reve de faire part" but i was not able to do it on "link" back then cause i missed a cruical toehook to get my heel stay which i have to place overhead (sketchy!).

entering the HARD climbing. pic by angela wagner
 so if i am at wednesday (2morrow!) a little bit stronger again i will climb one move further again and then i have a good chance to fight through the end... but this will be HARD till you have the monster-exit-jug in your hands!!! i remember how tired i was on the "deadalus-exit" - and tired like that there is NO WAY to top out on "highlander"...  but i feel stronger then last fall, hopefully its STRONGER enough...

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

WTF ?! again and again...

and again, and again.. something went WRONG...., pic by angala wagner
... and i was back for a LAST TRY on the fisch (again). the reason was: 5C in the weatherforecast for the night. thats nearly perfect. the FRICTION was back - i felt 10kg lighter - CRAZY the difference to one week before!!!  everything went perfect on my first go. climbing into the ending i felt strong and i knew; THATS IT and then i slipped from a foothold near the end - WTF ???!!!

the perfect line, the perfect moves , the perfect sloper:  MY favourite (hard) problem: Electroboogie, Avers
i escaped from the heat and went up to magic wood for a few days climbing with friends and doing some easy stuff (as a quick repettion of the the beauties: "electroboogie" and the  "riverbed" - ok not that easy, but very nice... ;) i tried a bit on the sds of the riverbed (from shallow waters...). but i was not able (and i do not like too much) to do the "original" CRIMpER-beta (moroni says 7C+, but hey why i can do the 8B pretty easy and not the 7C+ - so much to grading-logic again...?!)

doing some "easy stuff" after "hard work" in ticino ;) the riverbed, super classic in avers..., pic by angela wagner
but finally i found out some crazy way arround the original beta. after some days of effort i was able to climb it from 2moves in - 2days later it was so warm that i was not even able to do the single start-moves again... WTF???!!!


so off i was escaping the heat again. i went up to sustenpas to check on my life-time-project "highlander" (from which i climbed an easier topout last year; DEADALUS). it also was pretty warm up there at 2000m (16C). i enjoyed the sun, waited till the cold of the night was coming in and started to warmup. i felt good, i recognized that i somehow had more power on the holds then last fall. looks like the "fisch-training" was not too bad at all... ;)

after climbing some easy moves thats where the hard sections start. two moves from here i started last week..., pic by angela wagner
then i went to the "highlander". i wanted to know if i was allready able to make the ankward and hard starting-move of the "reve de faire (~8B)"- part with some of the hard moves in front. so i started 2moves into the hard part - and TOPPED it out  - WTF ???!!!

2 days later we got a snow-storm - so after beeing super dry for the last 6 weeks, the "highlander" will be seeping wet for the next 2weeks... looks like my timing is just SUPER bad this season. and i can climb "everything" from 1-2moves in... but not from the REAL starts - WTF ???!!!

2days after cimbing "highlander" from 2moves in...

Monday, May 2, 2011


during the last weeks at the "fisch" i have nearly forgotten what FRICTION means. during the last sessions at the "fisch" it was mainly a fight against loosing the holds cause of the "non-friction". once easy parts got pretty hard and slippery. caracteristically for the last two months the latest "fisch"-session ended near the highpoint cause of a sliding foothold - something that had not happend at that part for weeks!!! so the "fisch-season" ended how it was the entire time for the last 2moths; with something going wrong...

another argument for magic; andrea (the owner of 1001bloc) with a nice "energy-bar" ;)
on the way home i made the FRICTION-TEST. i stopped at magic wood and despite beeing evening and getting bit humid i was blown away about the FRICTION. i was super tired and trashed, but as i put my hand at the rock it was just sticking there - CRAZY the diffrence to some hours before in the ticino. with THAT friction at the "fisch" - it woud be not more then a walk in the park anymore :) 

better use of the "warmth"; taking it easy like our cat. pic by angela
its definitely time for a change: its no fun anymore to just fight against conditions, when at the same time you kow that all the moves woud feel completley different with 10C less. i will go back in fall and i will let the conditions (the cold) do the work for me. allready psyched for the walk through the fisch in the COLD!!!