Wednesday, December 17, 2014

night sessions - go the extra mile - last moves again...

over 10days chironico looked more or less like that - every square-milimeter of rock was WET (never seen something like this for so long in ticino) - one day we waited all day long for the rock to dry but it didn't.... so at 7pm we went north....


8PM, through the gotthardo to sustenpass; road closed... does not matter, take the walk.... thanks nico for joining in... was a great session... as always... ;)


30th of november, 0:30AM, 2'000m above sea level, SUSTENPASS, 0C, wind.... climbing up to the last move of "highlander-project" - once more. felt strong as never before - but just got this little bit too cold.... crazy... looks like it does not matter if its 15C or 0C.... just freeze off from the last two moves...


back at the car....  was a nice night out at the boulders..... ;)



few days later; chironico finally dry again... second last move on "insanity of grandeur"....




great progress on "big cat"-stand.... but going down at the mantel... too tired after 4hrs of going a muerte at "insanity"....




and well what do you do on a evening at home, 4degrees, rainy....; go stand-up-paddle... thanks for the night-paddle-out anna... what a great experience...  ;)







Wednesday, December 3, 2014

trick yourself - and why just do nothing is best to climb 9a



great article from dave macleod!!! when you want to achieve something in life - willpower is very crucial - especially when you try to balance a job, a high climbing level and social/family life:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2014/12/changing-architecture.html



on a side note: just about the "cycle/walk" to work: may thats not really "the" thing to do when you want to peak (just) in sport climbing/bouldering (when you are already pretty ok with your weight anyway). how many of the top-climbers-boulderers are cardio-freaks??? lot's of biking for example will give you bigger muscles on your legs which are just for no use in hard climbing. more muscles in your legs is more weight. and this muscles in your leg you really don't need when you pull on a small crimp in a roof. and then recent studies show that many people who do cardio use this as an "excuse to eat more" - and so they eat more and more unhealthy stuff then others (non cardio's) and consequently they are heavier as well.

so the bottom line for climbing will be: avoid anything that makes you gain muscles because thats just more weight and that will take your ass down to the ground. just hang around on the couch all day long (=no muscle gain there), facebook, twitter and instagram will keep your mind busy and just eat green salad with no sauce (or just eat nothing at all). but don't forget to go climbing... you still need that!!! and your 9a route project will never feel easier... ;)


Friday, November 28, 2014

no shortcuts - don't cheat yourself

instead of a glorious send of the super classic "insanity of grandeur, 8C" (we don't take "webby-grades" too serious, do we? he's supernatural... ;) - i am back at the start again... : after falling on the second last move to the lip on "insanity" and powering through the super hard start sequence up the four times a day i knew something was "wrong" - i never ever was able to "cruise" this start sequence so many times before in a session. did i got that much stronger? well that would be nice. but honestly i don't think so (even if i feel stronger, but not THAT much stronger).


close-up from the intermediate-"hold" from which i do have to move my feet:
 before the breake it was super bad,
as it broke it got quite "juggy", making it possible to suddenly control this heinous start sequence
and changing the character of the two existing boulders way too much.
so i glued the broken part back - it's pretty heinous again... ;)


late last spring i broke a part of this not so good intermediate hold - making it better. i did not think that it was much of a difference but kept the broken part at home. obviously i was wrong and it was quite a big difference. i nearly could cross now on what was just a really bad intermediate before. so i glued the broken part back - AND got hammered. it took me another two sessions to just get through this three start moves again... and it feels as desperate and insecure as it felt before the break! then it took me another two sessions to get back one move below my highpoint. three weeks "lost" and i may will not send this season anymore. but it felt like "cheating" and "wrong" to keep climbing with the bigger hold as i knew how hard it was before. hopefully i did not loose too much time. i finally feel like the "resistance"-power is coming back again and i don't get suddenly tired anymore. it's nice to feel strong again ;)

now that rain should stop next week and if i am lucky (for once) i get a few more decent (not too cold) days and will be able to finish up "insanity" before winter hits - if i don't i don't mind too much as it's just such a brilliant piece of climbing. but then there is this "big cat" waiting on the left as well... :)

where i went down some days ago: three more moves and this nasty mantle.
epic in full swing again.... ;)






Saturday, November 15, 2014

back on track...



it was COLD up there at sustenpass - but so beautiful with snow and the road closed

nothing better then great people, great climbing and great food... :) on may way back... crazy solo session up at sustenpass. 80min hike, 3C and 60+km/h wind (flying pads).... perfect friction... but bit too cold... froze off the last move of highlander again - and then got even some good links in "fetter hase project"....

went down on the match.... after freezing off two times after the 8B part... i made it to the second last move (before the mantel) of "insanity" on my third try of the day... why not on my first try?! thanx for that great (night) session prisca and nico!!!
making good progress on "big cat" (standstart) -
 if you are tall you miss all this crazy "midget-moves" on the "mellow terrain".... what a shame ;)


2more moves on insanity... and making good progress on the "easy" (8B? for my size) super cool standstart of "big cat". so i am on that point again on going down on the last move of everything...  would be nice to finish off something before winter will def. close the season. so when this shitty weather (record rainfall in ticino the second week in a row...) would for once turn nice again i may even could send something this season - looks like mid next week the rain will finally stop... going insane or be sane is the question... ;)

had a great day with my friend jesse (check out his blog). we had a great climbing day and a great dinner at "defanti" in lavorgo (chironico) :)

giving in is not an option - no matter what... ;)




Sunday, November 9, 2014

better days to come



i got quite some feedback about my latest blog post. thanx everybody! people were wondering what the hell was going on with me. well nothing too special. you know that life can really su*k. but mostly it's about your life, cause everybody else seems to have a hell of a good time. thats what you get when you follow your "friends" on facebook, or 8X.nu (no i am not on fb nor on 8X.ohno). on fb (climbing) life is just so easy, all boulders are soft, everybody is super strong, everything is second go and 6A+ at max... , there are 2day epics (sic)... but yes there are also other (climbing)people out there which don't have 24/7 the greatest fun, struggle to balance work,climbing,life - and (climbing)life can really su*k sometimes... and as it is in real life there are better days to come - that's it, that's al.




Thursday, October 30, 2014

bad timing, bad decisions, bad everything...

once again.... totally crazy... i felt strong and was able to climb solid into the last move for about 10times during rain/fog with wet holds at the start of the month (like in april). with two weeks of holidays (what means enough sleep and recovery) and better weather in the forecast i was sure this four weeks in october should be more then enough to complete my nemesis-project up there at sustenpass. i was sure all i needed was some dry days.












but i should have had known better... somehow it only got worser and worser...... a distracted mind because of personal/familiy-troubles, bad skin, bad luck and too warm weather (up to 20degrees) made me feel like shit during the last three weeks. 

every day up there i felt like i was just fighting against sliding off the holds. while i was training in the gym i felt super strong and fit... but as soon as i was up there... i was too late at the crag... too early... not rested enough... rested too long... it once was my speciality to be at the right place at the right moment... somehow, at the moment it looks like i "lost" this.... and i constantly felt like being at the wrong place at wrong moment... not just in climbing - and then the snow arrived...


Saturday, October 25, 2014

perfection - a must see!!!



the riding skills, the camera work, the music - perfection!!!

Friday, October 24, 2014

crazy swizzy weather




CRAZY - perfect weather again.... for the next 14days... if there just would not be this 80cm of SNOW -*ç%&£é:!;/&(ç*"+??!!!   ... well i will "wait"... train my ass off and may i get another chance... may not... we will see... time to get stronger anyway... ;)




Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Monday, October 6, 2014

why it would be nice to be a pro (sometimes)

a day off from work.... a bit rainy... climbing? yes!!! friction? no!!! going for it anyway - and going down on the last move of the highlander again....






























weather the day before while working.... - no comment....