Thursday, October 30, 2014

bad timing, bad decisions, bad everything...

once again.... totally crazy... i felt strong and was able to climb solid into the last move for about 10times during rain/fog with wet holds at the start of the month (like in april). with two weeks of holidays (what means enough sleep and recovery) and better weather in the forecast i was sure this four weeks in october should be more then enough to complete my nemesis-project up there at sustenpass. i was sure all i needed was some dry days.












but i should have had known better... somehow it only got worser and worser...... a distracted mind because of personal/familiy-troubles, bad skin, bad luck and too warm weather (up to 20degrees) made me feel like shit during the last three weeks. 

every day up there i felt like i was just fighting against sliding off the holds. while i was training in the gym i felt super strong and fit... but as soon as i was up there... i was too late at the crag... too early... not rested enough... rested too long... it once was my speciality to be at the right place at the right moment... somehow, at the moment it looks like i "lost" this.... and i constantly felt like being at the wrong place at wrong moment... not just in climbing - and then the snow arrived...


Saturday, October 25, 2014

perfection - a must see!!!



the riding skills, the camera work, the music - perfection!!!

Friday, October 24, 2014

crazy swizzy weather




CRAZY - perfect weather again.... for the next 14days... if there just would not be this 80cm of SNOW -*ç%&£é:!;/&(ç*"+??!!!   ... well i will "wait"... train my ass off and may i get another chance... may not... we will see... time to get stronger anyway... ;)




Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Monday, October 6, 2014

why it would be nice to be a pro (sometimes)

a day off from work.... a bit rainy... climbing? yes!!! friction? no!!! going for it anyway - and going down on the last move of the highlander again....






























weather the day before while working.... - no comment....






























Wednesday, October 1, 2014

i just climbed the "highlander"

but i did not top out... i did let go... crazy??? nope!!!

at the end of the day - after falling off the last move (again) and another good try - i wanted to check out the "new bypass" beta for the lower crux and the hardest section of the boulder (where also the hardest moves for ikarus/deadalus wait) - and just climbed it to end of the hard part - where i did let go. well WHY did i let go after the hard part?! after 10years i finally made it there... so WHY let go? because THIS was not "THE" highlander-project i was trying over all the years.

the "new bypass" beta climbs around the hardest move of the boulder. a move that still gives me a lot of trouble. some days i just can't do it on link. a move that is pretty weird and strange. a move that involves a hold that is wet a lot of times. so it would be very nice to avoid this move. this "new" beta does avoid this move and i did try this "new" beta already years ago. but the bottom was so close it was impossible to climb this section without dabbing. during the years there was quite a bit of erosion at the boulder, and also "human" erosion... a lot of climbing was going on and over time stones and vegetation have/ have been moved and now this "new" beta is quite ok to climb and seems totally natural to do so if you don't know how the place looked before.

the hardest move that suddenly could be by-passed low left thanx to "erosion"...
i know that some climbers did come very close and did put quite some effort into climbing ikarus/deadalus this summer. and they were using this "new bypass" beta. i really don't want to "shut down" a climb on nobody. i was thinking a lot about it but the ikarus/deadalus boulders had been done and repeated before this "new bypass" beta was possible. it's like a new hold as "appeared" and it definitely changes the line and the character of the boulder. and it also changes the character of the "highlander-project". for sure you could say you could climb it on the "original" variation and on the "new" variation. but for a visiting climber it will look totally stupid to climb to crux with a defined very strange and hard move when there is a smooth way around this move.

good thing about "erosion" is that it can be corrected. i (re)built the bottom back to where it once was. the "new bypass" beta should no longer be possible, but there is other beta (then the heinous undercling move) for sure. please respect this pile of dirt (sic). and now lets hope for a decent fall - and some send days... :)

Sunday, September 21, 2014

it's on when it's on - great start into the highlander season

back on it again and after 10+ years (call me crazy i don't mind) i still like to climb these moves - and i got very close on the full line (once again).

15C, holds were partly wet/humid - but WIND made it feel pretty sticky - and i felt fit and fresh. so i just wanted to test my fitness and went for it - and fell off the last hard move of the "highlander"....

thats the last hard move - which i failed to link (once again)

well i may have fallen off that move 60+ times over the last 5years... so no big deal, can happen up to three times a day. BUT - WOW: that has never happened on a "first day back" - what a (re)start into my highlander-project. it looks like it was a good decision to get fit by (re)climbing more hard classics in avers and sustenpass then i used to and mix it up with some gym-training. six weeks ago after my "extended" summer-break i was barely able to climb a 7A+. Now i am back climbing 8B+ again and (despite a shoulder, a finger, a knee and some hamstrings not at 100%) feeling strong and fresh - what a difference to july where i felt just tired and worn out in the heat after a long season - what a great feeling to climb in crisp pre fall conditions again :)

on my second try of the day i was super close to make it through that heinous "traumland-undercling-move" again. i fell off at the last bit of the move... waited for one minute, chalked up, did one move into the start of reve de faire and climbed it up to the last move again... so fitness IS back AND the weather forecast finally looks like the LONG awaited stable high-pressure weather could settle in next week.

no more rain???!!! that would help for sure!!!!


i could not ask for more. well ok, there is one thing... i may would like to climb just one move further this season.... just ONE MOVE... you know... its not that that many moves after having done 17hard ones in a row.

so if weather plays along i have now 4-6weeks for ONE MORE MOVE... JUST THAT ONE MORE MOVE...  (ok, this 7A/B ending will still be hard... but believe me, i will be bit motivated for that part if i finally will make it there)

and yes, to just not forget it: there is still no free lunch for me up there... because if my foot would not have had slipped off in the middle of the crux.. *a09q7'q08w!£à£YXCéàV$!?"*ç%V* - but well that would have had been too easy after all this years (10+ years)... wouldn't it... ;)

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

on my way back... different tactics to be applied


my summer-break got extended from the planed 3weeks to close to 6weeks due to a nasty and scary foot-infection i got on my last days in indo (don't go surfing with scratches on your foot!!!). thanks good the antibiotics worked well and the infection got punched back.

nasty foot-infection...

due to that longer rest it took me way longer to get some climbing fitness and skin back. it's every year the same, but its still amazing how much fitness i can loose and then how suddenly it comes back. nevertheless i am a bit concerned about the schedule to get ready for the "highlander-project" again. it looks pretty tight now as it will take me another three weeks to get to full power and in october winter can already hit and i will be very likely to freeze off the final moves as so many times before.

but this time i decided to apply different tactics then the last years. i will not put all my climbing days in that one project anymore. even if it this is hard when you go down repeatedly on the very last move and you really think you will send it the next day. i rather will try some other things, get really strong and just send when the conditions are good/perfect then battling with wet holds all the time. it's just not worth it (anymore). this clearly helps to keep the motivation high and to not train your mind to fail every time...

sustenpass never fails to deliver. i reclimbed the perfect "my axis" with a new and beautiful beta and also "kill your idols".
here you can see my friend ronny going for the hard first move (really hard move if you start with your left hand low (and dangerous for your knee - watch out!!!), easier with the left hand on a undercling higher up (and way less dangerous for the knee))


the last two years i also experienced and learned that despite up to three rest days my body was not able to fully recover from the specific moves anymore. i felt WAY stronger after a week or two off the project. this was also what helped me this spring for the "gepresster base". despite feeling fit and strong in fall i just got weaker and weaker and was not able to send. in spring i arrived fresh and strong from the ticino-season, went back on the project and quickly sent (and felt stronger then ever...)

managed to cruise "reve de faire" (original start) on my first go back on it... felt fresh and strong... despite having climbed "my axis" and "kill your idols" just some 30min before... way to go ;) pic by angelawagner.ch

so after close to four weeks back on rock and training in the gym it finally looks like skin and power are getting better by the day. i still feel far from really fit and on some training-boulders i used to climb with added weight in spring i barely am able to do the single moves. but in the last two weeks i managed to push my level from 7B to 8B again. progress always feels nice :)

keeping my fingers crossed for a good (dry) fall....

Sunday, August 10, 2014

progression ;)


last year on a small day in balangan


 two more weeks of surfing (and one year later) on a small day in ululwatu - pulling into the barrel at "racetracks" ;)




balangan last year again...


small day at ulu's this year - getting speed down on "racetracks" - at low tide you can see all that nice colored fish over the corrals... ;)



but it would take me at least 10more years of daily surfing to get where i would like to be one day...  -that has to wait - back to climbing now... ;)



Wednesday, July 16, 2014

enough is enough

after slipping off the crux-holds for 10days - i needed a break...




i wish everybody a nice summer, wherever you will find it ;)