Wednesday, November 9, 2011


... more and the "rescue-hold" would have had been mine...  despite cold fingers i went out left (from the position in the pic) but missed "THE HOLD" just by centimeters...

after a 20min rest, "gu" and his american friend motivated me for another try. first i did not wanted to, cause every time i tried that i was just too tired for the upper crux. but today the second try was nearly the better try, i climbed more fluent, more relaxed and the undercling-crux went even better then on the first try. arriving at the crux i switched to the "direct-crossing-beta" cause i felt that i got cold fingers again and just wanted to be faster then the cold.

second-try-beta. its faster but you need FRICTION. the crimp i am going with my right hand is the one i missed to bring my indexfinger on. pic by ikuko serata.
i crossed, hit with my right hand the crimp, but just with three fingers, my index missing (needless to say that never happend before). desperately i tried to readjust, but had too cold fingers to push harder with my left hand. so i tried to hold the swing for the last move without my index - my foot did not slip as last time - but thanks to the cold fingers i slipped of (dryfired) with my left hand before controlling the swing... down to the pads i was again.

10sek later i was up there from the standing-start, crossed, hit the crimp perfect and did the move with ease!!!

slowly i start to think i am may just too stupid for that boulder.... its getting really "unreal" - but somehow i like it... ;)

1 comment: