Wednesday, September 21, 2011

perfect weather BUT...

PEFECT weather and forecast for swizzy for the next days. perfect timing as i am getting in shape again after summer-breake. it's exactly what i was in need for the "highlander" - 10days of stable nice weather... 

BUT before the nice weather, sustenpass got dumped with snow (like last year)

at least its melting fast, but the first week of nice weather is just "useless" (in terms of climbing-days)

Bildunterschrift hinzufügen

so i headed down to chironico for a brief after work session. it was/is still way too green and warm for decent friction. nevertheless in the morning/evening its not too bad, especially with the dry "fön-wind" we got the last two days down there....

chironico, still too green and warm (which is normal for  september)

whatever friction - on a breake from his project to climb "the story of two worlds" from a (the only logical) low-down-start - mister dai koyamada did not seem to bother too much with the warmth and made an (fast as usual) ascent of the superbe line of "second life" (~8A+/8B), chironico. 

what a LINE!!!
dai koyamad on the big-span-crux of "second life", chironico. pic © Ikuko Serata (from dai's blog

i used the evening to get dialed the "micro-beta" for the "fisch-projek"t again. despite having spent countless sessions (60+) during the last 2years and just have been away for 5months i needed some time to get all the details (bodypositions etc.) again - my beta is somewhat (too) complicated... 

i climbed the "einfisch/keinfisch" (~8A+) - part few times and nearly made my way through the standing-start from the "fisch-projekt" (~8B). this was nice work for a first "recon-misson" - especially considering that i failed (several times) on a 6B+ slab on the wurmup ;)  but it also showed me how freaking f**king hard the whole "fisch"-line is - need to get STRONG again!

on the "einfisch/keinfisch"-part of the "fisch-projekt". (older) pic ©


  1. ...we have the same problem in the silvretta..snoooow :-) !

    second life..looks really great!

  2. yeppa, just seen on the webcams! but at least the weather is gonna be warm again (also in the mountains) - so the snow will be gone by the weekend (hopefully)

    and yep you shoud try second life. it is really great. not the very best rock, but supberbe line, cool moves and hard!