Tuesday, February 5, 2013

the secret is unlocked!!! how to get down to 6.6% bodyfat in 3months?

well, just sit around for three months, EAT and DRINK.. and PARTY...;)

physiotherapy just really kicked in, and for a general overview my body just got scanned. i told them i was basically sitting at home for the last three months... they ended up doing the scanning twice as they did not believe the results ;) at 181cm and 73kg,  the result was 6.6% (4.8kg) bodyfat - thats considered pretty low for a workout called "just hanging in a couch for months..." ;)



 to give you the details of my last 3months workout, i posted some pics below... ;)












after i got my results from the scan i was pretty hungry. so i was looking for some tasty and healthy food... look what i found... ;) 







Wednesday, January 30, 2013

275days to go - 12weeks post surgery - back on a climbing-wall ;)

my hamstrings are still sore, sometimes more, sometimes less, mostly it's not "pain" just a strange feeling that you "feel" your muscles from the attachment at the but to the knee..., sitting on hard surfaces is not possible (yet), i am not yet aloud to start with jogging and i am still very restricted in what my hamstrings are ok to do. but things still improve (and will improve) every day a little bit.

i am very glad and thankful that i have such a great physio-team!!! they really start to push me and they try absolutely everything to get my muscles work and bring me back on rock again... ;)

one of the fancy machines i am training with ;) its a anti-gravity-tread-mill - it blows air into the ballon, lifts you up and you do not have that much impact on the injured part of your leg anymore. i am learning to run again on this one - alien-technology.. ;)

i am still months away from real bouldering, but its funny how much fun and satisfaction every little improvement can give you after just lying down on a couch for two months, like first time sitting normally again when going out to a movie, first time walking a bit faster then a 110year old, not feeling tired after 20min of walking AND first time on a bouldering-wall again - even without any foot-moves - just standing on a 15cm ledge and grabbing some jugs.... - that was a huge push for motivation ;) its great that i am aloud to start with some kind of very basic system-training on a system-climing-wall (just some very basic two-foot-moves)! i started with some really hard core-workout as well... things start to get WAY better and it feels great to feel the body again!!!

i know i(t) look stupid - but climbing at 8am is NOT my game...;)  but its great they have this little wall in the physio-gym so we can check (real time) for the kind of moves that are ok and what is still too much for my hamstrings.


Thursday, January 24, 2013

288days to go - looking back on my best and my worst climbing year ever...



february: short 2weeks escape from the cold an snowy swizzy to....
THE perfect climbing spot in winter: hueco!
having a great time with great people; alex pumping "8A+ butter" without kneepad
LOT of rad climbing and a personal highlight with a flash of "power of landjaeger 8A"
(i usually never flash anything... ;)

last day flapper on the send-go for a martini...; may i had just "too many martinis" ;)


march: back home in swizzy got in really decent shape and was able to climb some nice lines; like this one!!!

then i spent weeks on falling on the very last move of the "fisch-project"

still having a great time with nice people; dai showing footage of his FA ascent of "tsotw low" - pure PASSION!!!

end of april; finally i got MY day; after 3years i was able to do the FA of "der mit dem fels tanz, 8C". a personal epic about transforming the impossible into reality. my hardest and best boulder EVER ;)

before it was getting too warm, i was getting so close on what in fall became "insanity of grandeur, 8C" - but getting close is not getting it done... - what a LINE!!!
at the end of the season 3pads of mine (stashed in chironico) were stolen - BUMMER!!!
there is still a 600$ reward!!!

may: i wanted to check for the "highlander-project" at susten. but the area was still in DEEP snow...



so we went to magic wood for some good food and bouldering ;)
where i managed to kill my finger while getting close on "from shallow waters to riverbed, 8B+"


in july my finger was slowly getting better and i was on to a very "special" trip to the infamous rocklands, sa


back home i was on two short but nice trips to where the best beer comes from: "frankenjura" ;)
and managed to fail once again so very close on one of the best compression-boulders ever : "riot act, 8B+"

late october finally brought sending-temps to sustenpass where i managed to do a super nice FA of "kein schneehäschen 8B/+"

and then after 8years of trying back and forth the "highlander-project" at sustenpass i finally had that one try where i climbed into the crux with power left and no frozen fingers - going for the last moves i KNEW i would climb it - well my hamstrings had other plans....
instead of toping out into glory i went down to the pads with a complete avulsion of my hamstrings, after surgery i spent the last 8weeks of the year lying around in bed an walking on crutches.


it was a crazy year - the best and worst can be so close - but 2013 started great, i am able to walk again and i will be back on (easy) rock in summer - good perspectives are everything ;)



Sunday, December 23, 2012

316days to go - 7weeks post surgery - long path of pt started

had an appointment with my surgeon: healing goes fine. finally i will be able to ditch crutches and WALK again... GREAT feeling!!!



i have been doing a lot of e-stimualtion to avoid too much atrophy and to not loose all my muscle coordination - still quite a quad for a "boulder-chicken"... ;)



but as physiotherapy can really start now, i can do many more things and finally i am cleared to hit the bike. so i went on to get what you need for the bike... ;)



ok, first just a stationary bike... ;) despite everything goes fine, it still needs a lot of time for healing... till jogging some 8more weeks, till toprope-climbing at least another 4months, bouldering mimimum 6 more months (my doc tends more to 9more months...). so i am not sure if it will work out with my "365days-back-plan..." but i will play around on some tools to not loose too much... it's the the first time ever for me on a "training-board"...



we can't drill it up, so i have to find another solution to put that up....


in between you need some original fuel... "franken-beer" is the best ... ;)



working on some x-mas presents with angie....



and our "new x-mas-tree"... ;) merry x-mas to everybody and see you next year!!!








Monday, December 3, 2012

330days to go - 5weeks post surgery

finally the swelling went down a lot, pain level decreased, no pain meds needed anymore, still can't sit, still on crutches, but on the weekend i was out for dinner and for a movie (sitting on my left side), that was great!!! but still the most time of the day is (has to be) spent on the couch. its getting better little bit day by day... but its still a long way...

cat for lunch... ;)

...i think i will be able to handle the physical aspect of this injury pretty ok but its getting really mental as i will just miss the entire winter-season, my absolutely favourite season and especially as it presents itself like this year: it just started to snow really heavy in the northern part of swizzy and it does not look like it will stop for next few days to dump powder and at the same time, ticino bouldering areas did not get snow yet and profit from unusual nice conditions for this part of the season.


THIS IS THE SEASON...

this year i will be the one UNDER the fog...

that means perfect bouldering (as you have seen on the sick FA's and reps in ticino over the last weeks) and a perfect start of the winter for snowboarding. especially for these many days where the villages in the valley are covered in fog, its just soooo great then to escape into the mountains, enjoying sun, blue sky, pow and never ending freedom... nothing better then going for some first-lines in deep pow in the morning and getting some bouldering done in the afternoon.  still wondering how i will deal with that without going mad and without driving my girlfriend crazy...





Wednesday, November 21, 2012

345days - dai koyamada and his "insane" swizzy-trip ;)

i was already looking forward for a nice fall at sustenpass, then going south to chironico, brione and bavona. especially as my friends dai koyamda and ikuko serata were scheduled to fly in mid october from japan. it was a real shame that i was not able to climb and not even meet with them thanks to my injury, but it was nice to see that they had a nice stay!!! (check dai's blog)

dai had a great run and started with some unfinished business first from last spring and pretty quickly climbed the impossible looking "from dirt grows the flower (left), 8C".

from dirt grows the flower (left), 8C. pic by ikuko serata

then he went on to check out my own new problem from last spring:"der mit dem fels tanzt, 8C" and climbed that one after some days as well. i felt really honored that dai was the first to repeat it and that he put in some effort (and did not climb it in some one day or so ;)
funny thing when i think back, that i was trying some 100+ days and he finished it off in 4... thats inspiring and thats the difference between absolute world class and local punter... ;) well quite..., he had bit beta from me (without beta, it may would have taken him five days ;) and i fell for about 2years on the last moves. if i had been just a little bit stronger i could have had climbed it WAY faster. so lesson learned: i really need to get this little bit stronger!!!

dai makes the second ascent of "der mit dem fels tanzt, 8C " (pic by ikuko serata) ..... here you can see "the master" and...


here the local "punter" ;)
pic by angelawagner.ch

then there was bit bad weather in the south and i suggested to him to go north and try "sur le fil, 8B/+" in wassen and a project i tried there as well. some days later i got a mail that he just sent every boulder at the bloc, including the project; "sur droite, 8B". he then went on to quickly climb "conquistador direct 8B/+", pure addiction 8A+/B and the beautiful "dulcifer, 8A+/B".


dai climbs "sur le fil, 8B/+" in the rain...., pic by ikuko serata

and thats a funny thing when i meet with dai. i just suggest some nice projects i tried but that felt really hard, and some days later he just climbs them - inspiring to say a least! he seems to live that famous word: "just do it"!!! last year that already happened with "deadalus direct, 8B+/c" and "lost in paradise, 8B/+" (which may is more B+!!!).


dai on the FA of "insanity of grandeur, 8C", pic by ikuko serata

and then right before the trip ended, dai even put one on top with the FA of the absolute stunning line of "insanity of grandeur, 8C" in chironico. NICE effort!!! after my FA of "der mit dem fels tanzt" i climbed that one from 3moves in and was getting really close, but then it was too warm and the warmth made the startmoves impossible. can't wait to go back on this one as well!!!

back in spring as "insanity of grandeur" was still a project - i was getting CLOSE... - but thats what i do everywhere, all the time... ;).
what a line! one of the best in ticino for sure and the moves are just RAD.!!!



Monday, November 19, 2012

348days to go - at least i got something to laugh at... thank you jens... ;)


"open your mind and understand...." - in J.E.N.S. we trust - follow him to the light... ;)

...sorry could not help to post this... one of my all time favourites! must be a fake, doesn't it???!!!





and today it came even better. i know that my english is pretty messed up and that i do a lot of misspelling myself and whatever, and also i have absolutely nothing against gay's! but i don't know what jens really wanted to tell us about james.....??????









what puzzled me a bit was the: "... i (jens) had to put him against the wall..." ;)) so is this jens here coming out of the closet??? now i am really confused.... - who is coming out of which closet here.... ;)))))