Monday, October 8, 2012

FA of "kein schneehäschen, 8B/B+"

....or who needs 7:30hours for a warmup???!!!

i just had one of my strangest climbing-days ever, every principle of "training" seemed out of place....

after the last session on the "highlander", when i felt kind of tired i took 4 days off to be fully recovered, .... well i managed again to go down twice on the traumland-crux-move... it seems i can do what ever i want to, 1restday, 2,3,4 doesn't matter. i can climb through that move and finish my project from 2moves in for 3times a day but somehow just don't get through THAT move anymore.... (ok, may if the holds would be dry and not wet/greasy it would help as well).

i then worked again on that trauland-move to may find a bit easier beta... i can do that move in 5different ways but not one really works well (enough when coming in from the highlanderstart) and it just seems i have to stick to my old beta... may take a bit more time and precision to execute that move....

going for the last hard move on the FA of "kein schneehäschen". pic ©

then i took a big rest and waited for my friend ronny to join me on the "schneehäschen-project". after he arrived i went on for a try, fell down as a heel slipped. chalcked up again, did not let go on the last move as two days before and sent... HAPPY TIMES and the FA of "kein schneehäschen". to give a bit of a "contrast" to the name of the problem to the right which is called "pitbull" i gave my new problem the name "kein schneehäschen" what means something like "this ain't a babysnowrabbit" ;)
grade should be somewhere between 8B and 8B+, but may its just 7C (for a 2m guy as its super morpho...) i have no clue - as always - but what i know is that its a perfect 9-power-compression-mover straight to the top - will get a classic for sure!!!
its funny that i was not able to do that one last fall when i was climbing 3times a day into the last hard move the "highlander", and now i can do do that one but can not climb into the last hard move of the highlander anymore...

ronny then worked the moves as well and did look good for a first session. after that i wanted to make some "endurance-training" on the "highlander" and started from two hard moves in and then the "shock"...; the traumland-cruxmove who just shot me down some 3hours before suddenly felt totally controlled, like it would never be a problem at all. WTF???!!! and then it got even better. on the 7A/B exit-moves i normally have to fight like hell when i arrive tired. i nearly loose the holds and my shoulder feels like to explode. and now i was so solid on that moves i could have winked in a camera on every move...

you still need some bodytension to go for the topout of the "kein schneehäschen". pic ©

...i just did not understand anything anymore. 7:30hours after i started my warmmup, after climbing the standing-start of the highlander (~8A), after going down 2times at the end of the underclingmove (twice an ~8B), after checking out beta on the cruxmove again, after making the FA on "kein schneehäschen, 8B/+" i just did that hard moves/sequence on the "highlander" so easy???!!! i then really opted for another go from the sds. but i felt so trashed that i put my stuff together and hiked down to ronny. he was working the moves of a possible low-start to "rejkavik, 8A+/B", which he had just climbed from the original start some days ago. he made it once into the standing-start but fell after... next time ronny!!! this will be a great addition as it somehow completes the line - can't wait to try it!


2days later on the "highlander":
i finally made it through the traumland-cruxmove again (for the first time since 3weeks), i was already 90%sure i would send, then on the second last move  i lost a toehook and while trying to controll the swing i lost the grip on the holds and went down.....

.... that seemed like perfect timing as i have two weeks of holidays in front of me and so finally chance for proper recovery (eg. sleep well and enough). that should be enough "booster" to bring me that little bit of extra-power to finish the "highlander" up. but after we had the best fall ever last year, the weather seems to compensate this year.... check the weatherforecast: its is supposed to rain heavy and its getting cold, not what i was looking for....

...story to be continued....


  1. ahahah good work Martin!!!
    Keep it up!!!

  2. story, great work :) !

    ..but s*** weather ;)