Wednesday, March 2, 2011


the move/sequence i can do literally for wurmp up

the move/sequence i can do when i am pretty tired too.

the move/sequece that feels possible up to a second before executing it when coming from the lowstart...

the move that feels so close and at the same time so far:


emi moosburger going for the CARROT-MOVE!!! pic by angela wagner

thats WHERE i went down some 15+ times allready. but to be realistic: i have to climb into that move with 90% power left. otherwise i can not even dream to DO that move.what makes things a bit complicated is that its not a little nice hike in the park to get there. you have to climb a tricky and powerful  8B/8B+ boulder to just set up for that f**** CARROT-move.

its pretty steep, the heel left is pretty small and the move up requires serious body- and squeezingtenion in between the open holds if you want to stay on the holds.
i can do that move/sequence from the original "einfisch/keinfisch" literally for wurm up. but if i climb into it from the new start, perspectives dramatically change in seconds! i manage to climb pretty ok into the handholds needed for the moves, but bringing up the heel left just takes the power out of my body and arms. the cold fingers do not make things easier too.

to get used to that i started working the sequence when i was tired. and i can do the sequence and the move when i am not feeling (much) fresher then coming from the low-start. its really just a matter of staying fresh for two more seconds.

so close but so far at the same time...

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