Wednesday, July 3, 2013

the perfect go - but there was this tiny DÄB...

well my knee did not like the heelhook-move on the "kein schneehäschen" too much - so that lowdownstart has to wait till fall (when my knee hopefully will be better again)...



good news is though that i finally figured out all the details of my new beta on the "highlander" so that my knee and hamstrings are not getting in troubles. i have to climb it def. HARDER now, but i am glad i can CLIMB at my limit again... ;)

despite beeing able to do the undercling-move even with some moves in front every time - it still gives me trouble when climbing into it on full link. it's not just hard it's also a pretty strange move...

the move giving me still troubles on link... so hard and strange to push into that undercling right hand...

 after falling down 3times at the underclingmove on link i was getting bit tired but went for another try. arriving at the crux-move my feet went off the biggest foothold of the entire boulder. it was just a very slight DÄBat the pad, but it was one. as i already felt pretty tired i just went for the move - doing some "training" and wondering if the move would work this time. and here we go; the "rabbit chasing the carrot-szenario" again. the two tries before i was fresh but could not do the move. then i was tired, i had a little dab AND  i just pulled trough it...  WTF????? but that was not everything: i went further up, then my toe slipped (as many times before), my legs and lower body started to propeller and i was prepared to go down to the pads (as many times before)...


getting some swing... (watch sven's face ;)



but to my big surprise i just pressed the swing away - i was not moving 1mm on the lousy holds - felt unreal... and so i was getting my feet back on the wall aiming for that last two moves - i had no cold fingers, perfect grip AND enough power left for the two moves... that WAS IT - IF NOT...



...i did had this tiny DÄB... - i must admit that i was tempted for a moment to climb on. i mean it was just a little tiny dab, nothing that helped at all...  



but i just jumped down... you really do not want to climb your 10-year-project with a dab, do you?!
what will go wrong next time?! i thought i already am trough all the possible failures... but this piece of rock still has its surprises for me...

see you again on the weekend highlander - *grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*

2 comments:

  1. Do you know the movie "Dämon"??
    "Tiiiime is on your side... yes it is...!" ;)

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  2. Hey Martin, du bist doch echt ein Voll-Däb ;-)
    Gut, dass du losgelassen hast, du hättest es dir nicht verziehen!
    Next time for sure!!! Ciao, Ingo

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