|"ikarus, 8B+" (ends at the "traumland-finishing-hold" one move to the right). in the pic i am already looking into the "highlander-crux"...|
pic by angelawagner.ch
fred (yes THE fred) and a friend of him have been up there at sustenpass as well and they really pushed me trough the first crux (thanks for that bit of extra-engery ;) - and i just had a little too much swing going into the second crux - so just two more hard moves to go... :) on the one hand it's nice to climb so far into the project again, but on the other hand; i must have climbed that 8B+ part over 50times over the last years... but never was able to do that last two hard moves... and it did not matter if i was totally tired or feeling quite good - something went wrong ever time... but you never know when this little window opens... and i'd better be there and ready if it does... ;)
and to not get too exited i did not manage to get past "trauland-crux" just once on the weekend. i can climb it from two hard moves in like 3times a day... with my new beta, it really looks i need to get even stronger... power can really help to solve such problems... ;)
later local powerhouse ronny (fresh from a very nice and haaaard FA in murgtal) joined in at the traumland-boulder as well and we figured out a very nice and powerful "low-start" (like a "depart bas" in font) to the "kein schneehäschen, 8B/+". just three more moves - but VERY powerful. now you feel already pretty tired getting into the original start - GREAT ;) can't wait to get back (and check if my knee does cooperate with the other moves) ....
|getting into the crux-sequence of "kein schneehasi, 8B/+" - will be WAY harder from the new start - i like... ;)|