the warmup felt heinous, it was pretty warm (close to 20C) but super windy... lost twice my toehook in the first part (8A+) cause i could not build up enough tension on the bad sloper (friction)...
... third go i pressed even harder - made my toehook stay - arrived at the undercling-move - did that one statically - felt super solid in the "traumland-part" - did not get too cold fingers - did not get any swing preparing for the second-crux - still felt good - just two more moves to go - i went for the first one - got the crimp - YES!!!
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| EVERYTHING went perfect up to the very last hard move. i climbed just perfect, no stupid mistakes for once and felt strong and in control... just to have switched power off from one second to another exactly where i am on the pic above... on the last hard move... |
- setting up for the last hard move - from one second to the other it was like somebody had turned off the power switch - lost all my bodytension and my fingers just did open the grip - all that happened so fast that i had not even a chance to try to "fight" against that sudden loss of control and power - so i went down like a wet sack of potatoes... BUMMER, did not experience such a sudden loss of power for quite some time... WHY NOW??? at least this time it has been a question of power and not because of cold fingers/wet holds/locking knees... or whatever...
second go i made it into the last moves of ikarus again but had super cold fingers again... so i did let go to save the power for the final day before i will leave for a 3week surftrip... epic in full swing again - not that i expected something else... after 10years you get kind of "used to it"... ;)
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