Tuesday, July 16, 2013

1move left... 1day left... epic in full swing again!

the warmup felt heinous, it was pretty warm (close to 20C) but super windy... lost twice my toehook in the first part (8A+) cause i could not build up enough tension on the bad sloper (friction)...

... third go i pressed even harder - made my toehook stay - arrived at the undercling-move - did that one statically - felt super solid in the "traumland-part" -  did not get too cold fingers - did not get any swing preparing for the second-crux - still felt good - just two more moves to go - i went for the first one - got the crimp - YES!!!

EVERYTHING went perfect up to the very last hard move. i climbed just perfect, no stupid mistakes for once and felt strong and in control... just to have switched power off from one second to another exactly where i am on the pic above... on the last hard move...
- setting up for the last hard move - from one second to the other it was like somebody had turned off the power switch - lost all my bodytension and my fingers just did open the grip - all that happened so fast that i had not even a chance to try to "fight" against that sudden loss of control and power - so i went down like a wet sack of potatoes... BUMMER, did not experience such a sudden loss of power for quite some time... WHY NOW??? at least this time it has been a question of power and not because of cold fingers/wet holds/locking knees... or whatever...




second go i made it into the last moves of ikarus again but had super cold fingers again...  so i did let go to save the power for the final day before i will leave for a  3week surftrip... epic in full swing again - not that i expected something else... after 10years you get kind of "used to it"... ;)


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