Wednesday, July 10, 2013

feeling strong BUT...

first try of the day... on the second crux again.. frozen fingers again.. thanx josé for the motivation - was pretty close - again...

despite doing the first crux on the first go and feeling really strong and light i fell off the second crux again. this time again with ICE COLD fingers (at nearly 20C) - again... ???!!!

i was fighting that problem for more then 7weeks already in fall 2011... and also on the "fisch-project" or on "the dagger" i kept falling for weeks with ice-cold fingers at the very end... its really annoying when you fall down again and again not because of bad beta or beeing tired but just because you can't fell anything anymore!

i tried EVERYTHING to get/keep fingers warm. i climb quite a lot for warming up but i have this  problem since years and its coming up whenever i climb more then 15 (hard) moves in a row. the problem is not the temperature its due to the pressure ont the holds that i push all the blood out off my fingertips (therefore the "cold sensation") and i just can not climb through small holds when just feeling "nothing". what works best is resting on a bigger hold and shake out. but when there is no resting hold... what worked best for me was to jog around for 10-15min to get my system/blood working till i started to sweat. that gave me some 3-4more moves before loosing sensation again. but even then i sometimes fell off with ice-cold fingertips and a sweating body and as i am dealing with a torn mensiscus at the moment i am NOT jogging right now...

second try of the day ended on this big move... was a great fight especially as i greased around the whole way up there
remembering back the last session when i was up there in the crux with (for once) NO cold fingers,  i may have a solution (i tried before as well). last session i went down 3times at the first crux, rested just for 10-15mins between each try and went again. on my 4th try that day i made it trough the first crux and had no super cold fingers on the upper crux. so it really does look like i have to climb an 8A+ in order to get cold fingers - rest not as long as i would like to - and go for the full line not fully rested... but may getting into the second crux with some blood left in my tips.

at least my fitness-level seems to increase again... nearly climbed the "ikarus-part" twice and afterwards did "reve de faire" and 5min after its standingstart to get used to climb the endingpart with tired arms... the numbers of the boulderproblems climbed that last day; ...7B,8A,8B+,8B/+,8B,8A... but it seems no matter what... i just don't get this last (two) moves together... i would prefer to do it just once with the two moves then 10times in a day up to this two moves... ;)

on a sidenote: it really does not help if you have to try to dry (but they continue to seep nevertheless...) half of the holds in the cruxes, but it makes you stronger... ;)

ps: such sad news, hopefully something like that will never happen again and the community can learn... rest in peace little tito :(

No comments:

Post a Comment