good news is though that i finally figured out all the details of my new beta on the "highlander" so that my knee and hamstrings are not getting in troubles. i have to climb it def. HARDER now, but i am glad i can CLIMB at my limit again... ;)
despite beeing able to do the undercling-move even with some moves in front every time - it still gives me trouble when climbing into it on full link. it's not just hard it's also a pretty strange move...
the move giving me still troubles on link... so hard and strange to push into that undercling right hand... |
after falling down 3times at the underclingmove on link i was getting bit tired but went for another try. arriving at the crux-move my feet went off the biggest foothold of the entire boulder. it was just a very slight DÄBat the pad, but it was one. as i already felt pretty tired i just went for the move - doing some "training" and wondering if the move would work this time. and here we go; the "rabbit chasing the carrot-szenario" again. the two tries before i was fresh but could not do the move. then i was tired, i had a little dab AND i just pulled trough it... WTF????? but that was not everything: i went further up, then my toe slipped (as many times before), my legs and lower body started to propeller and i was prepared to go down to the pads (as many times before)...
getting some swing... (watch sven's face ;)
but to my big surprise i just pressed the swing away - i was not moving 1mm on the lousy holds - felt unreal... and so i was getting my feet back on the wall aiming for that last two moves - i had no cold fingers, perfect grip AND enough power left for the two moves... that WAS IT - IF NOT...
...i did had this tiny DÄB... - i must admit that i was tempted for a moment to climb on. i mean it was just a little tiny dab, nothing that helped at all...
but i just jumped down... you really do not want to climb your 10-year-project with a dab, do you?!
what will go wrong next time?! i thought i already am trough all the possible failures... but this piece of rock still has its surprises for me...
see you again on the weekend highlander - *grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*
Do you know the movie "Dämon"??
ReplyDelete"Tiiiime is on your side... yes it is...!" ;)
Hey Martin, du bist doch echt ein Voll-Däb ;-)
ReplyDeleteGut, dass du losgelassen hast, du hättest es dir nicht verziehen!
Next time for sure!!! Ciao, Ingo