swizzybouldering
martin's blog
Monday, June 5, 2023
Thursday, February 2, 2023
"SWIZZY-COACHING" - Supporting you to unlock your full potential and get to that next level - Program 2023
Super happy to present to you: „SWIZZY-COACHING"
No algorithm but 1:1 in person coaching to unlock your full potential and get to that next level!
There is no other coaching-program out there where you get to work so close with such an experienced worldclass climber and -coach. Never stop dreaming!
THE PROBLEM - We all have been there!
- How to climb that dream-line we have in mind?
- How to leave that plateau?
- How to progress?
- How to structure our training?
- How to make the most out of our time?
- How to get stronger?
- How to get a better mindset?
- How to have better projecting-tactics?
- How to dial in that diet that enables us to be strong and healthy?
We all struggle from time to time. It does not matter if we climb 6A or 8C. We all struggle with the same problems! This is not always funny, but it is such a valuable process to evolve, learn and progress! Everybody can progress, we all have some hidden potential. We just have to find it and capitalize on it. And that is where I can support you!
THE SOLUTION - SWIZZY-COACHING
In the last years I got approached by more and more climbers (from beginners to professionals) who asked for an outside perspective and advice to overcome a plateau and with questions on how to structure training, improve the mindset, diet and projecting-tactics. Those climbers wanted me with an outside perspective and my experience to help them identify and capitalize on their hidden potentials. The coaching helped them to speed up their rate of progress exponentially!!! That is why i introduced "SWIZZY-COACHING" to help you out there to leave that plateau and achieve your dreams as well!
THE RESULTS: IT WORKS!!!
And guess what? After one year and every coaching month sold out (thanks a lot to my clients!) I can say: It really wotorks!!! And it works for my clients from 6A to 8B+!!! It is just the best to see how over time my clients leave their plateaus behind, get stronger, have a way better and stronger mindset, climb their projects and they say they feel way better in climbing AND in life in general - could not ask for more! This is simply amazing!!!
SAFE YOUR SPOT: Please inquire to mailmartinkeller@gmail.com
Personal and continued 1:1 coaching to unlock your full potential! Only in person 1:1 coaching! No programs from bots. There is no better offer out there with as much personal contact to a world-class climber and coach! No compromises; simply learn from the best!
Thursday, May 9, 2019
First Ascent "NINJA-SKILLS-SITDOWN-START 8C/8C+"
after three years off effort and more then 150 sessions - on my way to the FIRST ASCENT of the "SIT-DOWN-START" to "NINJA-SKILLS"- sticking the second crux -
video-still from the ascent!
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here you go with the full STORY to yet another epic journey:
„NINJA-SKILLS“ truly is special. the place is utterly beautiful. it is a south facing plateau with some typical ticino-chestnut-trees and some scattered out boulders. and there you can find this diamond-shaped and huge freestanding boulder. the line of ninja-skills is proud; over eight meters high and as much overhanging... (good thing the bottom follows upwards) there is just this one seam with holds in the middle. the climbing is amazing; very powerful yet subtle and tricky at the same time. perfection!!!
ninjaskills (sds) - such a perfect line - picture by hannes kutza |
ninjaskills (sds) - what a beautiful place - picture by hannes kutza |
watching footage of nalle hukkataival doing the first ascent back in time was already super inspiring. but it was not after spring 2013 (during an eight month rehab after ripping may hamstrings off my hip-bone while going for the crux of "highlander" in 2012) when i was hiking to sobrio in ticino to check on ninja-skills with my own eyes. and i got instantly hooked. the pictures and videos already looked good, but in reality it looks even better. it simply blew my mind and i knew i had to come back and climb on it. it took its time but i finally got back with some pads in fall 2016.
the second problem was the start-sequence of the original-start. there are many different beta's and i could do single moves but just not link them together. but that is completely normal for me. no need to worry too much. i know that i need some time to adapt and after some sessions i had finally found a sequence for the original start. but i still had a hard time to link it and when i finally was strong enough and had my beta sorted out it was a constant fight with (or against) conditions. snow, rain and later an unusual warm spring forced me to change my beta again and again.
i got totally obsessed with the line and after more then two years and well over 100 days of effort (or in other words: “training” at the boulder!) i finally ended up climbing ninja-skills from its original-start. interesting side note was the fact that in the end i had climbed it with a beta which i had tried already at the very beginning but with which i had not been able to do or link any move(s) back in the day. it was great to see the progress! it had been so good to see (again) how it was possible to turn the impossible into possible - if you really put in the work needed :)
trying to solve that sit-down-start-puzzle to ninja-skills
linking through the lower crux from the sitdown-start turned out way harder for me then i thought but the longer i worked the line the stronger i got. but then the temperatures went up and up as well. as i got stronger and got closer and closer to send - conditions again got worse. it was again an unusual warm and wet spring. it did throw everything at me. ventilators, all-night-sessions, ice to cool my fingers/body and tarps had been my answer and i kept getting closer and closer and every time i did drive down there i was sure i would send!
never ever get out of power - always refuel ;)
next time i was up there i did not feel at 100% after having cached a cold at the beginning off the week. but i also knew that i was in my best shape ever. so i rested for three days to get my body as much rest as possible. and with my wife and giani joining in i had great company and support.
i had a long warm-up and started to feel strong again on my dead hangs but still could feel the cold making my body a bit tired and nausea. nevertheless i did sit down and did give it a burn. climbing into the lower crux i did not have all the holds in the perfect spot (even worse then other tries) - but just kept climbing - no matter what. somehow i stayed on. coming to the ninja-crux i did not set up perfectly due to already feeling numbed out. i still went for it and miraculously sticked it (still do not know exactly why). after sticking that ninja-crux i had totally numbed out. i could not feel any holds any more, and as a consequence my forearms started to cramp and all i wanted was to let go!
it looks like i just climbed my two hardest dream-lines in one week. could be a coincidence as i was super close on several boulders at the same time in the past as well. but somehow i never had been able to make it count. now i did. something really had changed to the good. best thing is that i know exactly what had changed. but that will fill another post/blog. stay tuned! i am off to the next journey :)
so i can only speak for me, and others can only speak for them. for me it felt like an 8A Boulder itself linking into the (for me) 8B-startcrux-sequence of the original start. the main problem for me was that i did not got the holds of the original start sequence perfectly (unlike you can grab them when stepping in from the ground). and this turned out to be a nightmare for the crux-sequence for me. it was also really at the limit of my span and at my physical limit as well. so not having the holds in the perfect spot did make the whole thing infinitely harder for me. the mind-tricking-thing was that there is (way) easier beta (really good hold) when you have just some 5cm more reach. but as i did not had (have) that 5cm more reach i had to battle it out with what i got.
for me the full start-sequence from the sds felt like an 8B+/8C itself, followed by a long and physical 8A+ to the top. and that second part did make another BIG difference in difficulty for me (for sure not so much if you are strong in endurance). i had fallen quite some times in the uppers part (very last move twice) as well. so grading this one (as usual) is really tricky. i think it makes most sense to say the grade will be somewhere around 8C and 8C+, therefore the slash grade to express an interval, not an exact point!
but whatever somebody else will feel about this climb and its difficulty (grade) - it will never change my own experience with this piece of rock. it will forever be (one off) the best boulder i have ever climbed and up to date (by far) my hardest. and after that much time spent at this beautiful piece of rock the "grade" really starts to loose all of its importance. what really counts is the personal experiences, the people i met and the things i learned – that is what will stay with me!
Friday, March 1, 2019
„STORY OF TWO WORLDS (low), 8C
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„STORY OF TWO WORLDS (low), 8C“ - WHAT A LINE!!! picture by @hanneskutza |
after falling in true „martin-style“ at the very last move a week before i finally was able to put the whole line together (i started the line from @dai_koyamada 's low-start; adding even more funkiness to the line (and thanks to some new crucial beta not really harder then the original start at all anymore).
another epic journey comes to an end. i did stand underneath that crazy gneiss-feature already back in 2005 getting introduced to its even crazier climbing by the master dave graham himself. despite having done my first 8A boulder shortly before i have not been able to climb any of the cruxes! i did come back for the stand start "the dagger" (fa. by @tonilamprecht71) every year to play a bit around just to get shut down again and again.
dave graham showing how it’s done back in 2005. |
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i was back every year but simply was unable to climb dave’s beta. it was not until 2009 till i finally solved to puzzle for me and found my own crazy beta involving a full 180-turn in the middle and i could complete "the dagger" for its 5th ascent.
the pictures above and below are from back in 2009 - going for my crazy 180-turn-beta on “the dagger” – and climbing out head-first-compression-style. for sure 8B+ with the beta’s back then! last year i finally found some better (still hard) beta to avoid my insecure 180-turn in the middle part. there is some easier beta for the end-part as well but i still climbed the end head-first-compression-style - this sequence was just too good to not be climbed in this way ;)
it took many more late-night-sessions to fine tune the beta and gain the necessary fitness for the whole line. fighting snow and unusual dry (too dry) conditions - the middle part turned out to be trickier then i thought. so i was very happy when i managed to figure out some flowing powerful yet subtle beta through this part as well - despite some setbacks we always found some new micro-beta-improvements and thus stayed positive and motivated .
it was just great fun to go for it again and again; despite the obligatory last-move-and-fail-attempt (i just had numbed out and was too scared to go for the last big move to the jug without a pad in the back. this was a very good decision because i even hurt my back when just stepping down! when you get older you may get a bit wiser ;)
one week after falling at the very last to the jug it all clicked and finally sending during a session with some good friends and my love - when everybody cheered me to the top - was the perfect ending to this 14 year journey!!! 14years is a long time for sure. but i obviously did not spend it "just" trying "story". but it means i was back again and again to try it. and in the end i may have spent more time on this piece of rock then many others that have sent "the story". but that's also because i "train" mostly on my projects. others train mostly in the gym. they get strong in the gym and then send relatively quick on rock. but everybody has to put in the time and work somewhere. it doesn't matter if it is in the gym or on real rock. there is no such thing as a free lunch!!!
so its about time to switch again - onto the next journey - cause its all about the process, the experiences you make; the people you meet; after so much time you start to understand that the final destination doesn’t really matter that much anymore - dare to dream big - put in the time and work - focus and enjoy the process - eventually you will send - its all in your mind!!!
on a side note: i was neither able to climb dave's or dai's original beta. what they had climbed was/is even by today's standards super hard!!! and they both had been ahead of their time!!! lucky me there was more suitable beta for me. for me and my beta it still felt like an 8C boulder. may not the hardest (and there is for sure even better beta to climb it), but it would not make much sense to me to call it 8B+. it took its time, i was in good shape; found some beta in „my style“ but still had to dig deep and fight really hard. but most importantly; it was a great journey; this process again that you can turn the impossible into the possible - if you dare to dream big, take your time and keep going no matter what, but still try to act smart - and most of all: it was simply damn fun to climb on this iconic line!!!
Tuesday, March 13, 2018
Short video to my journey with BIG KAT, 8B+
some people have asked if i could make a short vid about the 100+ days process of my journey with BIG-KAT in addition to the more detailed blog i have written . i am not really good at doing video nor do i have the time (work you know... i rather climb when i have some time or spend time with my beautiful wife). but here you go. did put together a short flick. hope you like it. but be warned; some nudeness, screaming, desperation, cursing, and big joy at the end :)
for the full story check my blogpost below: BIG KAT, 8B+. The story to yet anther EPIC
Thursday, March 8, 2018
BIG KAT, 8B+. The story to yet anther EPIC
i already managed to climb "Big-Kat" one and a half years ago (time flies when you get older...) and wanted to do a video-blog ever since to document the process because i really got kicked my (fat) ass a LOT over two years of trying it on and off and had to dig deep to finish it. work, life and climbing got in the way though and i just managed to finish this blog (kind of) right now. the message and the process is timeless though. so here you go with the story and the process to one that did NOT GET AWAY: "BIG KAT, 8B+".
and it was once again not the "usual" three-day-epic. to give a better understanding of what it means to really test your limits i did put together this video-blog. as you can see in the different sequences failure is the name of the game in 99.99% of the time. not glorious at all but it teaches you a lot when you fail. fail again. fail better. send!!!
a special moment when you have failed for so long... ...finally getting onto that 5m slab to top out BIG KAT, 8B+ |
it seems i have the funny talent to go for bouldering-projects that i can relative quickly climb every time from either one move in or up to the last move. but usually not link it all together. it was not six years of falling at the last move as in the "highlander, 8C" at sustenpass but i still ask myself how i could fail for so long as i could climb big sequences pretty fast. but a very insecure toe-hook at the very first move and also the next foot move troubled me a lot. and when being able to link the start the beta for the upper part was just slightly too insecure as well, or conditions have been shit, or i was too tired after work or whatever. i did fall on EVERY single move. i had to readjust every little bit of beta till it worked perfectly on link. i even fell twice from the top-mantel and this despite having it done a hundred times. turned out it was just too hard when having cold fingers/being super tired. so i went back on the rope for 3hrs and found a slightly better micro-beta. that was the last missing part to the puzzle. next time i was up there i floated up the mantle. perfect ending to another perfect journey.
for sure it would (have been) be "smarter" to go home, train, get back stronger and just send. but then in the end its all about what your motivation is in climbing. as i was young(er) it was all about sending boulders, move on, next one... get as much as you can. but the longer i climbed the more i got interested in the process; solving a puzzle and find a sequence that not just works but that climbs fluid and nice is THE thing for me. i often climb boulders may a bit harder cause i like a particular move/sequence. i really don't mind, very egoistic i do that for myself. i do climb and train indoors as well and i even can enjoy this sessions but i want to be "outside", bouldering on "real rock". i organized my whole life, skipped a career in (big) business (thats what you normally go for with a master in business and economics) to be out there bouldering on rocks. i already enjoy the drive to the boulders, the anticipation, the warm up, the cleaning of the holds (can people please start to clean the holds before they leave!!!), the padding, to get ready for tries on my projects, to find subtle microbetas, to understand moves, body positions, to laugh, to scream, to have fun, to be angry, to be totally focused, to climb, to move. and you can "train" on your projects as well just not nearly as efficient (skin, conditions etc...).
i (re) cleaned this line years ago (did not know at that time that @dave graham was already trying this for a bit back in the old days) and was trying it for a bit on and off while working on "der mit dem fels tanzt" and "insanity of grandeur". it felt quite hard and i showed it to numerous people. but nobody really was interested (may cause there was no vid, so no quick tick for quick points ;). then super strong jimmy web came a long and did the FA of the line calling it "big kat, 8B+". suddenly it got more attention and it has been repeated a few times by now. but nobody came even close to repeat it with jimmy's original beta. way too hard. and he thought his way was soft. haha. BEAST!!! the sds is still is a project though. feels nails and morpho. but should be possible for the strong ones with enough wing span. go for it!!!
well go there and try... ;)
i never ever had so many slipping toe- and heel hooks. i knew i was physically ready after the first season working it - but sometimes when i felt strong and wanted to climb it super controlled i pulled myself up too high and suddenly lost the heel- and/or toe-hooks, sometimes i was too low, then my shoe broke on the heel, on my toe... i also slipped a lot off because of numbing out, dry firing or greasing off... even a few times from the move to the lip.
and so i finally was ready to send. but the next problem was the good rail where you had to match. as it was getting warmer and warmer the friction got very bad. i had a few days with super strong foen wind. but then it was so dry that my skin turned into glass and i just slipped off. watch in the vid how desperate i try to "find friction".
all this can lead to frustration as well. especially the slipping off (despite still having power) got me sometimes really angry. but that was lasting normally just for a few seconds. then i was all about analyzing and getting ready for next try because up to today i got them all.
i really don't mind falling off boulders because i am tired or too weak. but i don't like slipping off. so this big-cat-thing was a real test. i was really close but could not send it. so i stepped back and deconstructed every move in the crux again and put it down into the ground - but there is still a sds waiting.. ;)
when you miss all the good conditions then you have to go this extra mile again. as night sessions (at 3am) and foen-wind did not work as it was just too warm in spring. the friction was really bad and i just kept sliding off the holds, even once going for the lip. so i simply went back on a regular afternoon after lunchtime and after working in the morning. it was mid may and already 20+C in chirionico at the parking. so it was way too warm. there was nobody around, no wind... but i finally had my perfect beta and the will to put this beauty (and/or beast) down before summer would hit hard with temps in the 30C range. so i did pull on - and finally did put it down into submission.
the SEND-GO was a nice one as i did just one little minor error. just loving it when the pieces finally come together and one move flows into the next :) but it was a real fight. its always a big fight for me. it never felt easy when i sent a longstanding project. never!!!
with the right beta i could have climbed this already one year earlier. but then again. i am loving the process and its also my "training" and the thing that keeps me going. solving the puzzle so every move went down perfectly and smooth into the next was what i enjoyed most. onto the next one!
a special moment when you failed for so long - mid may, mid day - 20+Celsius - shitty friction - nobody around - but put it into the ground - finally the perfect go - |
Monday, March 20, 2017
"Defanti" in chironico (lavorgo)
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spring is here in southern swizzy and ticino-season is in full swing! so where to eat and stay when bouldering in chronic and you are for once not into pizza and dirtbag?! Where to go when you quickly are in need of some food, grocery things, chalck, another crashpad, tape, headlamp or guidbook?!
cesare, owner of hotel "defanti" just purchased two saturn-moonpads which you can rent at the hotel "defanti". there are even three more pads to rent out. |
well try hotel "defanti" in lavorgo. its located right at the base of the valley before heading up to the boulder area of chironico. its a nice little restaurant and hotel and has small grocery shop inside as well. i can really recommend the hotel and the restaurant. the hotel its nice nice and the rooms clean with very comfy beds (ask for the rooms with new mattresses). tell them that you are bouldering and you even get the special "boulder"-discount for your stay!
after a hard day bouldering jesse bonin (@jessejessjeh) enjoying some delicious desert at restaurant "defanti" in lavorgo/chironico |
if you are into something different then pizza for once you have to get dinner at "defanti"! sandra and cesare really care about their place and about food. its not as cheap as a pizza, but (for switzerland) very reasonable prized. you absolutely have to try the "stone-soup" and the dessert "flirt" (ask for it even if it is not on the menu). when you want to go for dinner on saturday may call/ask for a reservation. its normally filling up fast on saturdays.
there is also a little grocery-shop where you get everything you need. you can also rent out some moon-crashpads. get chalck, tape and the ticino's bouldering guidebooks. all you need to be and get a happy boulderer ;)