Thursday, October 7, 2010

nightsession and new KEY beta

i was wrong; just 11days for the snow

to melt - thanks to CRAZY summer (25C) weather ;)

so off i was for susten again. due to a meeting i was pretty late (5.50pm) - but with 11C the grip was magic - while wurming up i felt great - compared to summer-time the grip was sooo good - i nearly had the feeling of pulling out some holds ;) 

but as i was not up there for 2weeks (the snow), i knew i first had to rebuild the power endurance (15hard moves in a row) and get used to the special moves again. to my SURPRISE i climbed up to my highpoint on my first go (again). but facing the second last move, i felt tired and was not not toooo disappointed to miss the hold. i know my body pretty well. it will build up the powerendurance during the next one or two sessions and then i can climb to that move totally fresh - what is highly necessary if i want to suceed. 

my "falling-move" (7times allready)  - from the slot left hand (not sidepull as seen here) to the nice hold righthand i allready have here.

i then did some laps to build up resistance and played arround a bit on my "falling-move", which is a big move from a jam-slot left to a good hold way right up. the problem is that i do have to do it a bit dynamic and if i dont hit the hold right or the feet cut off - and youre bit tired - youre offfffff. its no problem from the traumlandstart, but gets a bit to a problem from the lower start. i allready had three diffrent betas, but not one was really safe - or to hard - coming from the low-start and beeing not 100% fresh (after climbing arround 8B to that point) anymore.

then i found a "non-hold" 10cm before the good hold right hand. i never considred to use this one, it also was not brushed, never seen it white - seemed useless - but yesterday i figured out that this "non-hold" actually fitted perfectly for me. i can get this hold statically, and with the right bodyposition i get tension on the hold - and then i can push me with my left feet the 10cm to the good hold right hand. this beta feels WAY better than the other ones - its powerful, but more controlled and i really LIKE the move now  - CANT wait for SATURDAY ;))

traumlandblock at 10pm: way better than the gym: get your LED lamps out and climb ;)

CRAZY, 6years ago i climbed the first time over this moves - now i found my best beta - good things need some time ;)

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