Tuesday, October 5, 2010

boogie boogie...

went up to magic wood with my brother and met some good old friends in the wood. despite the three days of beeing sick i did not feel too bad. the temps were moderate and there was wind blowing - NICE conditions!!! so i wanted to make use of it and had a look on nbsl.

but due to WAY toooo soft skin i punted around on  the second move like a beginner. from there it was ok, but i wanted to try from the start, and as that f*ç4" second move did not happen it was off (NEVER try this boulder with bad/soft skin - its a wast of time!!!) then i wanted to do something to keep up my endurance on big holds (for susten/ticino) - so looked for something with REAL holds and BIG moves: “Electroboogie”!

THE sloper on the boogie, pic back from 2005 when i did it for the first of maybe 15times up to date - it just toooo good to do it just once... ;)

I loved that boulder from the first moment I saw it YEARS ago. a freestanding pure line with intense and tricky compression moves – just perfectly my style ;) since last fall, electroboogie has a broken hold (does not affect the orginal beta/grade) – and I wanted to know if I coud still climb it with my old beta. I did not wanted to reclimb it with the original crux-beta, cause this beta involves a (haaaard) shouldertweaking move I really disliked from the first time I tried it in 2005. Back then I figured out some nice heelhook compressionmoves. I used the shoulderhold just shortly and then another crimp lefthand to avoid my shoulder from dislocate. That crimp I used back then is broken now and so I had to find something new.

the left-hand-crimp is broken, instead you can go another 50cm to the left and down (with a nice left heelhook) to get a good crimp and do some nice compression moves to gain the top-sloper.

After playing a bit around I recognized that I coud reach with my left hand even further down left to a nice sidepull. From there I could make use of my old beta with some more nice hooks and compressionmoves to top it out.

I tried this new beta shortly 4weeks ago, but was (powerwise) not ready yet after the summerbreake. This time I was ready. It felt perfect, nearly too good as i was kind of “disorientated” while climbing, never "knew" where i exactly was cause it felt so diffrent (more like 6A) compared to 4weeks ago (where it really felt like 8A+). it was a funny state of mind – shoud happen more often ;) unfortunatley it was allready too late for something else. but as I REALLY like the moves with the new beta i then made use of the “momentum” and did some laps on the "NEW" boogie, boogie – YEPPPPAAAA ;))

searching for the toe-hook left, to go for THE sloper left hand - bodytension all way to the top - i liked and i still LIKE very much ;)

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