as susten is a high-alpine area there is too much snow/wet holds sometimes up to july. then it gets normally too warm (not enough friction on crux holds). late october winter is back; snow, icing cold, closed road... - so not much time to climb HARD up there.
|hmmmm, how does that work best?! the answer ocasionally can take some time...|
the part up to "traumland"-hold is pretty safe. the top out is not very hard, but if you blow it you may have a serious problem. so "ikarus" for the safe part, and "deadalus" for the topout seemed pretty appropriate.
|after 5easy moves from down-right it STARTS|
BUT from there it seemed my "tank" was TOTALLY empty. the next 6moves to a REAL jug (and safe heaven before the easy topout) are maybe just 6C for itself - but you shoud not miss the last of them; a big move to a big jug. you cant spot that move anymore, if you miss it you swing out and you will "land" in the "bush" (full of stones) on the steep slope 3m below yourself. that was never a problem climbing in from the standingstart or the "traumlandstart" as everything was super controlled.
|hard moves, but safe - IKARUS|
|where you shoud not fall anymore, you cant really see it on the pic - but you will miss the pads and go a long way down... DEADALUS|