Monday, October 18, 2010


why 6years?! too stupid, too weak?! well may both ;)

as susten is a high-alpine area there is too much snow/wet holds sometimes up to july. then it gets normally too warm (not enough friction on crux holds). late october winter is back; snow, icing cold, closed road... - so not much time to climb HARD up there.

hmmmm, how does that work best?! the answer ocasionally can take some time...

usually you have just some 4-5weeks prime at end sept/october - if there is once some rain or snow, you have even less time. i first climbed the existing parts, got stronger, but then there were: broken holds, wet holds, injuries and other nice boulders you want to climb - all that can take some time...

why two names for "one" boulder?!

the part up to "traumland"-hold is pretty safe. the top out is not very hard, but if you blow it you may have a serious problem. so "ikarus" for the safe part, and "deadalus" for the topout seemed pretty appropriate.

after 5easy moves from down-right it STARTS
and it was EXACTLY like that on the send. as i climbed last friday for the first time to that finishing hold of "traumland" from the bottom-right, i climbed very solid, safe and felt strong.

BUT from there it seemed my "tank" was TOTALLY empty. the next 6moves to a REAL jug (and safe heaven before the easy topout) are maybe just 6C for itself - but you shoud not miss the last of them; a big move to a big jug. you cant spot that move anymore, if you miss it you swing out and you will "land" in the "bush" (full of stones) on the steep slope 3m below yourself. that was never a problem climbing in from the standingstart or the "traumlandstart" as everything was super controlled.

hard moves, but safe - IKARUS
but coming from the bottom-right these moves felt TOTALLY diffrent and they were suddenly OUT of controll. i may never fighted as hard on so "easy moves" before. on the move to the jug i nearly had a total "musculatur-failure" - my mind told me "no way you can do that", but i did not stop for a milisecond and just went all out for that jug - i got it. but then my fingers just started to open and i NEARLY lost the jug as i matched to it - so close... so there can be not better name than "ikarus" for the SAFE part and "deadalus" for the "not-so-safe-from-all-the-way-down" topout ;)

where you shoud not fall anymore, you cant really see it on the pic - but you will miss the pads and go a long way down... DEADALUS
and yeah, may "the most important" reason for 2names: like that (2names) you can register it twice and get twice the points on ;) but may the "boulder"-police will call you back because all that is not brave and hummer blablaballa... and as it is a pretty long boulder (6moves easy entry, 16hard moves, 10moves easy top out) - is that still a boulder? a route? a boulderroute? a routeboulder? ... you will have to register it as 6cB+b+C- or something like that. and as the move to the traumlandstart is a bit "dabby" and the following move bit "crouchy" - instead to get some more bodytension, flexibility and/or better beta - one can bitch arround that on internet-forums. AND... did i really climb it - no video-proof....puahhhhhh... ;)

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