- yesterday i waited longer and the friction was perfect.
- my power was ON
- no mistakes, everyting went PERFECT up to the very LAST move
- with 2 fingers on the finishing hold i went DOWN
--> so NO, lucky i was NOT!!!
i went not down because i was too tired, but i pushed so hard on the secondlast move, that my fingers on the right hand CRAMPED and they just did not fully reOPEN while i was deadpointing to to finishing hold - so i partly missed it - CRAZY-BUMMMMMER!!!
- and NO, i did not discover my final beta on sunday - it way was (may) yesterday ;) i allways struggled, sometimes more, sometimes less with the startingmove of "traumland". i never truly understood why it sometimes was going ok, and why it sometimes was harder. i had an idea, but was not able to find the precise solution. yesterday on my "near send" i got a cut, had to tape my finger and went on my second go down on that underclingmove cause i slipped offfffffff the tape. i retried the move to bring my tumb on the hold to not slipp from my tape and "a move in the move" was then the missing puzzle and it worked perfectly - i can now do the move totally safe and i know precisly what i have to do. finally i UNDERSTAND every single move and its coming down to just be STRONG enough - or not to get cramped fingers on the final move...
to SPICE things UP: first i wanted to travel today to the frankenjura with my girlfirend for a week or so. but the weather looks like it turns bad over there. so we decided to stay in swizzy till at least the weekend - what gives me another LAST (as the winter will arrive at the weekend in swizzy too) chance on friday (thanks a LOT to angela - KiiiiiiiiiiiiSSSSSSS;)
SO after 60+days over 5years - with the final BETA - one more MOVE to do - ONE FINAL DAY - thats EPIC!!! (i allways have to smile when people are like: ohhh, three days of epic - and then i climbed the problem. thats WAY far from EPIC ;)