Thursday, February 9, 2012

what a DAY!!!

soaking up sun, having a good time with nice people and climbing rad boulders all day long - it can't get any better, can it?!

we started our day with the calssic "moonshine-roof" - you can see the "surfboard-hold" on the left in the pic. RAD!!! the climbing is just too good! i could not help but kept smiling al day long - 
even when climbing ;)

then it was just 50m down the hill. as i came around the corner my jaw dropped: WHAT the F*CK???!!! THE perfect 10m, 45-shield with perfectly placed holds on it: 


THE perfect line!!!
i have seen pics of that one and found it looked pretty cool. but standing in front of it, it was just mind-blowing: WHAT A LINE!!!!!!!!!!! and to make it perfect it looked like TOTALLY MY climbing style.

feeded with nice beta from henry i chalcked up and set off the ground. got the nasty left pocket just perfectly (pic) - pressed on, changed feet - put my heel in and hit the jug. ALL in control - but then i got bit nervous. i just did not wanted to blow it on the easier but big and dynamic ending moves. but henry coached me perfectly trough the next moves, i dug deep, did the dynamic moves and screamed myself to the last move and toped that beauty out on FLASH.

i know that this i not "big news". but i have rarely the opportunity to even try to flash hard lines and this is one of (when not) the best and purest line i have ever seen - it was just THE PERFECT MOMENT!

still with adrenaline rushing through my body it was on to the next classic: "metal-detector". and again i stood there in disbelieve: just another CRAZY line.

the crew working the "metal-dyno"
the crew jumped on it and the climbing was just as good as the first impression: a dyno leads to some big moves followed by a crazy knee-bar-cross-over-crimp-move and an easier finish. PERFECT again!!!

to finish the day off we went down to "burden of the beast, 7C+". it took us a while getting some beta together. the beta was quite tricky, super core-intensive and very powerful. a real little beast - just the way i like it.... ;) 5min before we had to leave the park i sent this one - but on the very last corn. looks like there must be better beta as there is some talking about 7B+.... i did it from a proper (eurostyle) sds and it felt more like 8A... whatever THE grade is, our beta felt great to climb and it was a perfect ending of a perfect day!

super hard cruxmove - and to bring the feet out was even harder... a real BEAST ;)


  1. Jesus Christ Martin, if you go on like this you'll run out of problems in a couple of days!!!

  2. thank you guys ;) but people do flash 8A without and before breakfast, barefoot, with closed eyes, one-handed, in 10sec, and then downgrade it logically...;) but to be able to flash that line was personally a real highlight for me!

    what makes me happy as well is, that i am already in a far better shape then last time i was here - when everything goes its "normal" ways from here i will be perfectly ready for the "fisch" in chironico in some 3weeks from here... ;)

  3. well, not so many flashes here:

    probably they all had breakfast with shoes and open eyes using both hands for about one minute :-)