soaking up sun, having a good time with nice people and climbing rad boulders all day long - it can't get any better, can it?!
we started our day with the calssic "moonshine-roof" - you can see the "surfboard-hold" on the left in the pic. RAD!!! the climbing is just too good! i could not help but kept smiling al day long -
even when climbing ;)
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then it was just 50m down the hill. as i came around the corner my jaw dropped: WHAT the F*CK???!!! THE perfect 10m, 45-shield with perfectly placed holds on it:
"POWER OF LANDJAEGER, 8A"
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| THE perfect line!!! |
i have seen pics of that one and found it looked pretty cool. but standing in front of it, it was just mind-blowing: WHAT A LINE!!!!!!!!!!! and to make it perfect it looked like TOTALLY MY climbing style.
feeded with nice beta from henry i chalcked up and set off the ground. got the nasty left pocket just perfectly (pic) - pressed on, changed feet - put my heel in and hit the jug. ALL in control - but then i got bit nervous. i just did not wanted to blow it on the easier but big and dynamic ending moves. but henry coached me perfectly trough the next moves, i dug deep, did the dynamic moves and screamed myself to the last move and toped that beauty out on FLASH.
still with adrenaline rushing through my body it was on to the next classic: "metal-detector". and again i stood there in disbelieve: just another CRAZY line.
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| the crew working the "metal-dyno" |
to finish the day off we went down to "burden of the beast, 7C+". it took us a while getting some beta together. the beta was quite tricky, super core-intensive and very powerful. a real little beast - just the way i like it.... ;) 5min before we had to leave the park i sent this one - but on the very last corn. looks like there must be better beta as there is some talking about 7B+.... i did it from a proper (eurostyle) sds and it felt more like 8A... whatever THE grade is, our beta felt great to climb and it was a perfect ending of a perfect day!
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| super hard cruxmove - and to bring the feet out was even harder... a real BEAST ;) |
...niiiiiccceeeeee :-) !
ReplyDeleteJesus Christ Martin, if you go on like this you'll run out of problems in a couple of days!!!
ReplyDeleteFANTASTIC EFFORT. 8A FLASH IS HARD!!!
thank you guys ;) but people do flash 8A without and before breakfast, barefoot, with closed eyes, one-handed, in 10sec, and then downgrade it logically...;) but to be able to flash that line was personally a real highlight for me!
ReplyDeletewhat makes me happy as well is, that i am already in a far better shape then last time i was here - when everything goes its "normal" ways from here i will be perfectly ready for the "fisch" in chironico in some 3weeks from here... ;)
well, not so many flashes here:
ReplyDeletehttp://27crags.com/crags/east-mountain/routes/power-of-landjager
probably they all had breakfast with shoes and open eyes using both hands for about one minute :-)