Tuesday, February 21, 2012

bloody last day...

on my last day it was off to climb with sid and alex bit on north. while wurmup i took some pics of sid from a nice FA he did last week: "burnt by the sun"... comes out the cave left of "black mamba" and is a nice techy and powerful traverse.

"sid roberts" on his FA of "burnt by the sun", coming out all the way of the back of the cave. (click to watch in BIG!!!)

as my tips were burning i wanted to do something not that friction dependend. i went for the classic "right martini, 8A+". big moves on nice holds leading out a cave to a big crux-throw and a pumpy finish.

that was the plan: topping out on "right-martini", but.....
i went down twice on the big throw, feeling bit tired. then i made a longer rest and went for my last go of the trip. climbing into the crux i felt surprisingly strong - catched the intermediate - went for the jug - hit it perfect - hiked my feet to go for the finish and then - BAMMMMMM - down in the pads i was. 

 had not yet a proper look, thinking positive you know... ;)
first i thought i ripped the undercling-hold of. but a quick check on my stinky-finger showed that i just had the luck to get to know what a real "hueco-flapper" looks like... my finger-tip was just sliced open, it was a bloody mess and i was just "happy" that it was not my first day on the trip. so a bloody bad ending to a great trip. it's a bit a shame when you have to leave when you are starting to feel strong and good again. i will have to come for a longer time to hueco for sure, just too many great lines to be climbed...!!!

anyway i hope my skin heals up quick enough to kick start the ticino-season - i feel like i am perfectly coming into shape for march and the "fisch-project" in chirionico.

 but the trip came to a sudden end..., half of the pad was off - so that was IT -  but next year i will take a bloody revenge for sure ;) 

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