Monday, February 27, 2012

good start back home - "no mystery" - "FA" after broken hold

i was fighting with the jetlag, my hueco-flapper and a LOT of work but i still managed to check out conditions in chironico last week. i was greeted by sunny and warm weather, but still some snow on the ground!

i first played around a bit on "pure addiction" but was unable to hold on the slopy pinch with my finger taped. so i hiked over the hill to "no mystery" to which i came close to do the "FA" (after a broken hold) before i left for hueco.

back in 2005, dave graham and simon wandeler watching me trying THE move on "no mystery" (already opting for the beta with left hand) 
in the pic above you can see the old startinghold lefthand which is gone by now. now you have to start with a slopy pinch just visible right of my knee. (the low start starts on the obvious jug where i have placed my heel) the start-crimp right-hand is pretty small (1/3pad) so its basically a foot-move (its all in your heel) and its all about timing to catch the rail before your body is going down again... a very nice powerfull and tricky move. just power brings you nowhere, you have to find the right mix between power, speed, tension - i love that kind of stuff ;)

the crux is not to get up there, thats easy. but its hard to hold on - very delicate move - I like ;)

i gave it some nice burns and was hitting the rail every time but was not able to hold on. its "easy" to get up there and to hit to hold, (i managed that on my first visit, first try) but was unable to hold on - till last week. i already felt bit tired and wanted to leave and gave it just one last burn. somehow i managed to grab the crimp with perfect timing, but with just 3finger and to my big surprise i somehow was still on the wall.
sticking THE move 
then i felt like i started to slip out of the hold with my taped finger and waited and tried to get a better grippingpostion - renee and frederick standing behind me saw that and started to shout and pushed me forward. so i fighted my way through the following very nice but still hard moves and toped "no mystery" out. HAPPY about that send - such a nice little line and moves!!!

"safe" beta for the last moves - a heel-hook - what else ;)
as for the grade this is very hard to choose as its super reachy. for TALL guys this may feels like 7C, for SMALL ones like 8C. for me it felt def. harder then before the hold broke and harder then the "regular" ticino 8A+ but easier then the 8B's. so for me "no mystery" checks in around 8A+/B. 

i quickly looked for the low-left-start as well. when you climb into the big crux-move from there you don't get the holds for the big move too well and the body is very low. the result is that the BIG move is a LOT harder, but its possible and thats just GREAT - i will be back... ;)

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