Wednesday, February 15, 2012

pumping the butter

originally we wanted to go to north mountain, but the park was full so we had to switch to a tour instead.
alex first was pi**ed to say at least. as he was going very strong in the martini-cave he wanted to go back there to make use of the 2restdays we had! but thats park-life and so we headed out west.

last week: alex devaud checking out the moves on the "butterpumper (sans kneepad), 8A/+"
that was not too bad at all, cause alex had a nearsend of the "butterpumper" (sans kneepad, 8A/+) some days ago. its a funky small line, not climbed too often. may because it can be climbed the easiest way with a kneepad and doing nearly all moves out of a heinous kneebar, totally unique and funky moves. but we opted instead for the "sans-kneepad" version, cause like that you have to do some crazy compression-moves that made just super fun...!!!

and sending time... ;)
on the warm-up-go alex fell with a foot slipping on the very last moment of the last move. he then was talking stuff like: "quitting climbing... and so on - i don't translate here ;)". i finally convinced him to may stop climbing after a very last try. so he went for it again and sent with great STYLE just taking the butter down - every move in control. it was nice to watch that. 10min later he repeated it for the cam. IMPRESSIVE climbing to say at least, as i was just not able to do his crazy crux-move-beta - and he did it static!!!

nice sds to an ever nicer highball at the back of "chnikel", FA?!
well then i went for a warmup as well, but on way easier terrain on the backside. beautiful highball and i did a nice sds to it as well. may even a FA?!

perfect big holds and perfect moves - perfect ;)
then another crew joined in at the "chnikel-cave" and went for "julio an me, 7C". the beta looked so cool, i just had to give it a try. but in the crux i had not placed a cruical heel/toe-jam well enough and my feet started to slipp. but somehow i was able to keep it all together and flashed that nice little rig! thanx for that nice beta guys!!!

"julio and me, 7C" so nice beta for the flash!!!
then it was on for me to the "butterpumper" again. i climbed it "sans kneepad" already some days ago but i like the moves so much i went for the  "butterpumper, (sans kneebar at all)" which felt like solid 8A+ to me. it may sounds stupid to do so many different versions of one boulderproblem. but they all make sense when you stand in front of the problem (like with "diabolique" at north mountain). and the most important it was just GREAT fun to climb this compression-moves on bad ass slopy holds and hard hooks - i can't help but thats just what i like BEST ;)

crimping hard on our first visit to the "butterpumper, 8A/+ version"
like alex i fell on the very last hard move cause of a slipping foot. i then discovered even nicer beta for that move involving another heelhook and BIG move... perfect - but then my skin and power went slowly down. i set up for a final try and went down again, tired and no bodytension left. 

my own little crazy beta on the send of the "butterpumper (sans knee) 8A+". still don't know why i did not fall off the wall here... - BAD holds!!! 
as we had just 5min left before we had to sprint out of the park, i sat down, chalcked up, literally fell on every move but somehow managed to stay on the wall and toped it out into the sunset. BRILLIANT day again ;) 


  1. Funny. I realize you do not know me but I somehow found your blog. Alex is an old friend of mine I met in Durango years back. Please say hello to him from Jason St. Mary if you are still there. I also saw you were climbing with Sid too. Love that Hueco climbing.

  2. hey jason, its my last day tomorrow so i will be glad to say hello for you to alex. and yep, i LOVE that hueco climbing as well ;) a real shame that the two weeks are nearly over!

  3. Thank you very much. I miss that guy- hard to recognize without the dreads! Enjoy your last day. Would love to return myself.