Tuesday, April 26, 2011


some time ago i asked myself what it woud take to climb into that position as seen in the pic below, getting behind the crux... after going down there allready some 30+times i allready started to think that the "fisch" actually coud be just this little bit too hard, especially in the warm conditions when i am suddenly not able to climb past the 4start-moves anymore. BUT  i GOT to the LIP, and even further...

finally i climbed past that point... pic by angela wagner

i tried it with nightsessions, but it did not cool down enough. so despite beeing NOT a morning climber at all (and the logistics, 2hrs drive from home etc.) i tried it in THE EARLY MORNING. at 8am at "the fisch" i found cold rock and a nice BREEZE - YEPPA!!!

the recently found "micro beta" (PRECISE bodyposition) on the start worked great. nothing went wrong on the intermediate part (for once). arriving at the "einfisch-start" i had no cold fingers and then for the VERY FIRST TIME i was hanging at the LIP with both hands. not too tired. i just had to bring my feet out and do the nasty mantel. in slowmotion i took out my foot, but the swing was too much, the beta bit too shaky and in slowmotion i lost contact with both feet and went down to the pads....

the move i went down... unfortunatley a bit too much swing. pic by angela wagner

i knew the beta i used was bit strange and shaky, but it worked (from the standing for example) and i have not found a better beta when checking it out back in time. i immediatly started to check for better beta and eventually i FOUND better beta (CRAZY after sooooo many days...).

that the new beta worked quite well i found out after a 4hrs break as i started on the SDS (too tired for the lay-down) and went down going for the rock-over at the mantel. i just had one finger (instead of 3) on the rescue-hold... i coud have really killed myself on that moment. on the first go with this NEW beta i just woud have climbed it...

on the very next go (but this time from the SDS). the new beta worked well and i climbed up to the mantle. what a pitty i did get the (good) hold left hand with just one finger. i was not able to readjust and went down trying to rockover...! pic by angela wagner

so no easter-gift for me at the fisch. but thats (kind of annoying) totally normal for me. i can not JUST climb someting hard. it always has to be an EPIC. and i dont talk from "... ahhh i had to try this for three days and then i fell on the last move...". epic needs a bit more effort, months of getting deep into the microcosmos of moving... : like when i went down on "one summer in paradise" (magic wood, it still was a project that time) on the 6a-finish due a sliding hook. or as i exploded on the "dagger" (cresciano) on the 3a-exit (CRAZY!!!). or going down with the finish-hold of "ikarus" (susten) in my fingers. and some more...


No comments:

Post a Comment