Sunday, April 3, 2011

murphy was right - but i am NOT jerry moffat

last friday nothing slipped, nothing went wrong - so murphy was right! the only problem were the 18C (still at 7pm) - and i coud not wait longer to go for a real night session. i climbed to the last move again, but i had to figure out i am NOT jerry moffat and FRICTION still does (greatly) matter to me... (learn in this former post (at the end of it) what jerry had to say about friction)

the position right after the crux - what does it take to get over it ONCE?! pic (klick to make it bigger) by angela wagner
i remember some 4weeks ago we had one day with a max of 17C (friday it was a max of 23C) and i suddenly was not able to climb the startmoves of the fish-anymore and i had great problems to even climb the "einfisch/keinfisch"-ending isolated. NOW i was still able to climb all the sequences, nice progression. but i wanted to LINK the sections and the 20C was not the help i was looking for. i had to "overpower" every move so hard that i exploded going for that last move (the lip i have with my left hand on the pic above).

funny that when the conditiones were perfect and the moves felt very "ok" EVERY time something went wrong. AND now, when the conditiones were f**ked, nothing went wrong... this "fisch" is turning into a REAL EPIC...

the position right after going down at the crux - what does it take... pic (klick to make it bigger) by angela wagner

but i am SO CLOSE - I WILL NOT GIVE IN, i am at least as stubborn as this granit-fisch or even more ;) the weatherforecast for next week is nice, but its gonna be way too warm (24C). this means nightsessions or EARLY morning attacks - the tricky thing will be to avoid the humidity in the mornings/evenings and at the same time make use of the colder temps... watch the charts below to get an idea:

the temps at piotta (source), close to chironico (ad plus 3-4C for chironico)

humidity at piotta (source), close to chironico


  1. ...same problem in austria martin...toooo warm :-( !

    - cheers manu

    PS: Nice pics!

  2. hey manu, yep; summer sucks ;)

    - silvretta hat wohl noch zu viel schnee?!

    dienstags krieg ich noch eine chance: max. temp in chiro dann "nur" 16grad laut vorhersage (nicht bombig, aber VIEL besser als 24C!!! und am abend sollts dann mit 10grad passen) und WIND solls auch geben. UND ich hab dann 3restdays gemacht, also super,super erholt - könnt spannend werden ;)

  3. Yep Martin, du bist nicht der Einzige, dem's so ergeht...
    Was dir wahrscheinlich ebenso wenig nützt wir mir :)
    Dranbleiben und zuschauen wie man dabei über die Jahre älter wird ;)))
    Gruss, Chris

  4. hehe, danke chris für die aufmunternden worte - geteiltes leid ist ja halbes leid, willst du einen halben fisch... ;)

    ...und ja, hab mir auch schon einen "alternativnamen" für das fischrojekt überlegt; "die rückkehr der alten, fetten bouldersäcke..." oder so.. ;)