Friday, April 8, 2011


-06:15 start of a crazy day/night

-15:00 home from work checking the weather; 24C in chiro...BAD....taking 2hrs of sleepp.

-20:30 chironico, still 17C!!!

arriving in chironico, beautiful view, but still WARM...

-22:30 start to wurmup in the "centrale-area". it was nice and quiet and a lot of deer around, they did not move too quickly and were somehow courious what the hell i was doing there at that time on THEIR ground...

- 24:00 START with NIGHT-FISCHing. it felt still WARM, but i was super psyched and went on to go for the low-down-start.

- 03:00 AM sitting there at the "fisch" on my pads and not getting the first 4moves together anymore i was somehow pissed. just one week ago things still went super well.  thinking back to ONE WEEK AGO, (when IT WAS 10C LESS)  and spinning some "numbers" i came to the conclusion that this session last week had to be one of my strongest climbing sessions ever:

- 5times (may that was a bit much)  for advanced warmup and betarefining the "einfisch" to the lip (7C+/8A)

- once the low-down-start till i went down with a foot slipping at the start of the second-part (~8B)

- once the "low-down"-start over the "killer-crimp-beta" falling (again) on the last  hard move (~8B+)

- once the standing-start (4moves in) WITH topping out (~8B)

- another 5 times "einfisch" to the lip (7C+/8A)

- twice "delusion of grandeur" to the end of the sloperband (~8A/+)

- 03:24 back at the car, still 11C... i was close, but it was just too WARM, the rock was not able to cool down enough for me.... - BUMMER. but i was there and tried to use my chance before the real heat arrived. i gave my BEST even if it was not enough this time. 

-04:30 falling asleep

- this weekend its getting up to 28C in the ticino. absolutley CRAZY and NOT even near to normal for the season at all. i will have to wait and hope the temps will go back AGAIN before summer definitely hits!!!


  1. ...take your crashpad and come to tyrol...we only have about 20° ;-) !

  2. fantastic Martin!!!
    I may start night sessions on my project as well, hope to get it done before though.
    and that was a strong session indeed you monster!!!

  3. hey lore,

    last week i made the experience that "MORNING" sessions work way better then nightsessions!!! (despite i am not a "morning-climber" at all)

    if the nights are still (bit )cold, in the morning and till in the early afternoon (if the holds/boulder are in the shade) the rock is still cold. but if it is really warm during the day, the rock needs to much time to cool off... as i experienced at 3am...

    at the "fisch" it nearly worked perfect last week. i went down on the final mantel, with my fingers on the "rescue-hold"...

  4. yes I agree completely! my little project sits in the shade until 2 pm and it works well! I am trying to get my body used to intense efforts in the morning with horrendous fingerboard sessions at 8 am: luckily bouldering is a lot funnier!!!
    I wait for the report of the send soon!