Tuesday, February 22, 2011

as predicted... the "dagger-scenario"

.... i kind of established on my resistance on my 4th day on the "fisch". i climbed twice into the last moves. i was even able to repeat my original start-beta on my first try of the day. its again and again amazing to see how its possible to adapt to strange, hard moves; from impossible to possible in just a few days. BUT also as predicted i just fired of the last moves with toooo gold and greasy fingers.... bähhhhhh.

this scenario of cold fingers reminds me very much on my sessions back in the winter 2008/2009 on the famous "dagger" in cresciano. there i went down over WEEKS with just to cold fingers on the very last moves again and again... on the first "warm" (15C) day of the year i climbed all the way to the top JUGS and just went down on the 2A-mantle with the JUGS in my hands - total fatigue. on the next "warm" day (17C) i had for the second time no cold fingers and climbed the dagger.

"dagger-scenario":  after doing a crazy 180turn you are in the position above and you enter the second part of the dagger (cresciano). two moves later (two hard moves from the top) my fingers were usually frozen. same same as in the "fisch"... pic by angela wagner. (the beta described above is by far not the easiest, but it was the most fun for me to climb)

BUT the difference is that the "ending-part" on the dagger is about 7C+ and the the "fisch-ending" is about 8A+ with a HARD last move (and nasty mantle) where i need some decent friction (and bit of power too) to be able to finish... so it can't be toooooo warm.

anyway, i may better stop whining, start to get stronger to reach the "jerry-point" (see below) and come back in summer when its warm enough for me. the (in)famous jerry moffat stated in the movie "no comment" (great!) something like: "... i have this little bit more power, so friction doesn't really matter to me anymore..." - sounds perfect to me; let it be WARM and let ME be jerry... ;)

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