after 4restdays i felt strong, good skin and it was perfect friction. i think i woud have done THE CARROT-MOVE from my (old) sds, but with the new start i went down on it again. despite the two extra moves i was getting closer, but it got me again... damm carrot ;)
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| the carrot still gets me, but we will see who is laughing in the end ;) |
BUT then a friend talked me into have a look for an alternative to the "carrot-move". i did first not listen to him, cause the (easier) BIG-boy-beta does not work for me and i felt (still feel) it is just a matter of two/three more days to be able to do that "carrot-move" on link. but with the new and harder start in mind i was not totally against any better beta ;) after working arround a bit i really got an idea of a possible alternative. i finally found another way to the lip, but coud not get a cruical toe-hook out without loosing the holds. after 3hrs and after climbing may 20times through the hard part of the "einfisch/keinfisch" i found a way to get my toe-hook out: looks like i tricked the "carrot" :)
the new beta makes instead of one hard move (the "carrot-move") arround five (complicated) moves and it is overall just slightly easier then the old beta. but (the most important) is that there is no brutal onemover anymore where you go down cause you have just 80% and not 90% left in your tank. now i can switch into fight-mode and i can continue to fight my way up. it will get a hell of a fight thats for sure - and you know: i love that perspective ... :)
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