Saturday, March 19, 2011

another PERFECT day?!

everything was set up perfectly:

- i was well rested (2restdays)
-slept well and enough
-it was sunny, dry, windy, not too cold
-i had enough skin

beautiful view over chironico. sunny, warum, windy - seemingly a PERFECT DAY

there was NOTHING that seemed to speak against THE send, BUT:

since days my mind does not stop spinning arround the terrible things that happen at the moment in japan, libya and elswere in the world. what was i doing here in the tinco moving arround on boulders when there are people so desperatly suffering and the world needs to be saved from an atomar collaps?! 

the contrast to the ticino-pic above coud not be bigger. a city in japan after the recent zunami. pic source 

its not "new" to me that a LOT of people all over the world are suffering while i am so fortunate to live in a safe and rich country and so beeing able to spend a lot of my time with playing arround on rock. but the recent new's brought that thoughts back in focus once again... and i still do not have an answer to it. at least in my work as a teacher (economics) i try to give my students a "different" view from the world (then the one you get when you just consume mainstream-news), try to show them what (and why) things go wrong in our world and how we can act to make it (a bit) better... its not much  i know, but i believe its way more then to just think and work all day on how to make 100million$ more earnings for a corporation allready making some billions in a year...

finally clearing up my mind by warming-up i recognized that i just slipped arround on the rock. it was SO DRY (the fön-wind) that my skin turned to glass and i had NO friction at all. looked like i used a bit too much of "antyhdral" for this conditions. i worked on my skin with sandpaper and water to soften it and it got bit better. down at the "101-area" my friend ronny managed to grab a very quick ascent of the "einfisch/keinfisch" (after a brief session october last year) - and he was looking STRONG and made it look easy!!! 

normally i like this signs of wind, cause that indicates GREAT friction. BUT yesterday it was just too much...

psyched from ronny's send i went down to the sds of the "fisch". BUT i just slipped arround on the (starting)holds. i needed even 3tries for the very first (easy) move. i was really puzzled, it felt like climbing on another problem then the week before. my glassy skin had NO FRICTION on the holds! on my first go on which i managed the starting-sequence my heel slipped on the transition into the second part - DAMN ! on my second go i overpowerd every move so hard that i nearly saw "stars" while making my way to the start of the "exit"-part. just to arrive there and another heel slipped.... DAMN !! 

on my third go i lost (slipped out) a hold (jug) on the middle-part... WTF ??? !!! and i even maganged to get a mini-cut in my index-tip (what normally never happens as i have so soft and thin skin).

yep, it was too dry!!! sounds stupid i know, but it was "too dry" and my skin too hard, so NO FRICTION!!! i KNOW that i am ready to climb that line, but i am really wondering what CRAZY THING will happen next to not let me sucessfully link those funky moves... too much friction was not bad, what will be next.... *arrrrghhhhhh* .... any suggestions?!

ON THE OTHER HAND, given the above discussed BAD things that happen right now in the world my "problems" at that pice of rock are totally ridiculous and that day must very well be described as a PERFECT DAY!


  1. TOO DRY!!!!! crazy.. i mean, i have no skin at all after 3 months.. but yesterday come back in chironico: to dry, it was like i had soap on my hands.. Can't hold any jug, any slopers, even big crimp!! Lot to do this time, but better do it in magic wood!! See there from next week!! Gianlu

  2. heyo gianlu - good to see that i am not totally crazy and someone else experienced the same crazy-conditions! hope youre doing better and see ya in magic (but first i have to finish up some business in chiro ;) martin