i started at the new lower start what worked ok (but its still so much harder then my former start). and my new beta for the ending seems to work as well as i fell with my ice-cold fingers allready on the hold of the last hard move - SO CLOSE!!! after a 30min break i then nearly climbed the boulder for the first time from the "standing-start". i just slipped down on the rock-over of the mantel, not exactly getting a foothold.
|last year this position felt not too comfortable at all, now i can (must) shake out my left hand. that is cruical to get rid of the ice-cold fingers to be able to go 4 the following crux-move. pic by angela wagner|
this two attemps first look like "failures". but these "failures" gave me some new important insight (still new beat-details after 40 or so days on climbing on that piece of rock - i love 3D-bouldering.. :)
- i climbed twice over the "carrot-move". so i definitely TRICKED THAT CARROT-MOVE!!!
- i now know i have to "invest" some power in getting that foothold at the very end really precise
- and i found a "hard-resting-position" two moves before the crux in order to get rid of my cold fingers lefthand.
so again, for may the 10th time i think i am READY to SEND. but this time its DIFFERENT. i have reached two new high-points (from the sds and standing) and i just went down because of cold fingers - and against the cold fingers i found this new "rest-point". so lets play some ROCK N ROLL ;)
but it looks like the carrot has not given in yet: watch the weatherforecast for next week:
.... anyway next weekend the weather shoud be perfect: sunny, warm, windy. i am "waiting" since a year... so one week more ore less does not matter at all. even though i would prefer to go back immediately - CARRRRRRAMBA ;)