i started at the new lower start what worked ok (but its still so much harder then my former start). and my new beta for the ending seems to work as well as i fell with my ice-cold fingers allready on the hold of the last hard move - SO CLOSE!!! after a 30min break i then nearly climbed the boulder for the first time from the "standing-start". i just slipped down on the rock-over of the mantel, not exactly getting a foothold.
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| last year this position felt not too comfortable at all, now i can (must) shake out my left hand. that is cruical to get rid of the ice-cold fingers to be able to go 4 the following crux-move. pic by angela wagner |
this two attemps first look like "failures". but these "failures" gave me some new important insight (still new beat-details after 40 or so days on climbing on that piece of rock - i love 3D-bouldering.. :)
- i climbed twice over the "carrot-move". so i definitely TRICKED THAT CARROT-MOVE!!!
- i now know i have to "invest" some power in getting that foothold at the very end really precise
- and i found a "hard-resting-position" two moves before the crux in order to get rid of my cold fingers lefthand.
so again, for may the 10th time i think i am READY to SEND. but this time its DIFFERENT. i have reached two new high-points (from the sds and standing) and i just went down because of cold fingers - and against the cold fingers i found this new "rest-point". so lets play some ROCK N ROLL ;)
but it looks like the carrot has not given in yet: watch the weatherforecast for next week:
.... anyway next weekend the weather shoud be perfect: sunny, warm, windy. i am "waiting" since a year... so one week more ore less does not matter at all. even though i would prefer to go back immediately - CARRRRRRAMBA ;)
ahahah! nice one Martin!!!
ReplyDelete40 + days on your project??? my five sessions on mine are nothing!!!
you get me psyched!!!
DESTROY.
hehe, i know it sounds like a lot but i enjoy the process of solving a puzzle very much! and the "fisch" is may the best and most complex puzzle i ever met so far. there is a "way less complex" beta but i was not strong enough back in time, so i had to be creative. by now i can do this other beta as well, but i like the creative beta way more.
ReplyDeleteas the "fisch-bloc" offers the whole time finest 3D-bouldering (EVERY move has a least one heel-/and or toehook) there are so MANY possible betas/moves that you find every time something you have not tried yet - so you kind of permanetly climb on a "new" problem... ;)
on my 5th session on the sds of the "fisch" i still was not able to do all the single moves - it took me 15days to just climb to the start of the second part for the first time. and as you see: that was just the beginning ;)
go on with your project, take your time. like a good bottle of wine, you need to give it some time... and it will taste so MUCH better then if you just consume it immediatly!