Sunday, March 27, 2011


EDIT 6.4.2011: just got a message from JERNEJ KRUDER who confirmed to have climbed the sds to the "schmankerl" allredy last year. so most surley and till other notice the GLORY for the FA belongs to jerney - my respect to jernej and ronny who sent both so fast!!!

on my way back from another fisch-session (more about that soon) i joined my friend ronny birchler at a crazy little night-session in the barierra-sector. and  he really was on fire and made perfect use of the great conditions that evening!!!

after doing (some days ago) the stand-start from the very nice shield of "schlonziges wiener schmankerl" (7C/8A) he went for one of the nicest looking unclimbed lines in chironico: the unclimbed sitdownstart to the "schmankerl". its just two more moves into the stand, but it makes things complicated cause its hard to get established for the BIIIIG cruxmove.

ronny at the STANDstart of "schlonziges wiener schmankerl" in the barierra-sector in chironico. the SITDOWN starts SITTING (as many people tend to "american-sds these days) down at the obvious, large rail (at his feet in the pic above).
some strong people have tried it, but nobody suceeded till now. ronny however did short work with that nasty beast and dispatched it in the same session he tried it from the sds for the first time. so we have a new, very nice looking boulder in chironico: the SDS to "schlonziges wiener schmankerl". WELL done and it was great to be there and impressive to watch!!! 

the line is now complete and its a real stunner if you look at the shield from the trail on the way to deliverence-sector! ronny felt the sds like an 8A+. i feel very diffrent. as i tried this sds to the "schmankerl", the nearby "bogalagga" felt way more doable for me and so it was. but it looks like ronny fitted perfectly into that hard sds and he did it quickly and did not feel it to be super hard - thats bouldering and thats great. to finish that nightsession, he sent "doctor pinch" (~7C+) in something like 5min... (to get the 8A+ you have to go for the "unpaded" low-down-start)
ronny celebrating his FA of the SDS of "schlonzigs wiener schmankerl". watch closely and you see him - i know i have to buy a better phone/cam, but hey it was 10pm... ;)
ronny had a crazy week and he is progressing faster then he can climb ;) climbing very fast through three hard (8A+) boulders at his limit..., but well its not his limit anymore if he can climb that stuff in a session...

- "sur gauche" in wassen
- "einfisch/keinfisch" (one session and one in october last year) in 101-area , chironico
-  2nd ascent of the SDS to "schlonziges wiener schmankerl" (one session), barierra, chironico

so it looks like its time he finds something HARD now ;)


  1. hey martin!
    i think Jernej Kruder already climbed this problem from a sit start last year!

  2. hey gabri,
    thanx for the info, i will check that!
    greez, martin

  3. hey gabri,

    just got the message from jernej kruder and he confirmed having climbed to the SDS to the "schmankerl" last year. so the GLORY for the FA goes to HIM - congratulations from my side and sorry for the "wrong" news.

    greez, martin