|discussing beta on a brione-intermediate with andrea, the owner of the 1001-gite in cresciano|
after repeating a lot of the the beautiful easy and intermediates i wanted to check out a project left of "atlantis" from which i climbed a straight-topout (first ascent of "supertussi") last year."supertussi" climbs up a very obvious nicelooking littel crack-line. the beta however is not that obvious. there are good holds but you permantetly have the "wrong ones" in your fingers. as i first tried to solve one of that "wrong-hands-problems" with a "karate-curx-move", my friends were just laughing at me: "you can NEVER do such a move..." was their comment. 1h later i had done the move for the first time - it was just a matter of the accurate micro-beta :) and that was exactly what i liked about "supertussi" so much. i just am not really interested in the "boring" left-right-left. it was another "3D-puzzle" to solve, which took some time but finally got put together.
That was back in 2008, but back then i was just not able to do the first move - no lack of beta - lack of power was the problem. last year i surprised myself by just doing the move first try back on the boulder and after 3days topping out "supertussi" ~8B'ish
|FA of "supertussi" back last year. its quite tricky and powerfull but if you get the beta the climb is pretty fun - exactly how i like it ;). the exit on the lip to the right ("macho, macho") is still an OPEN project.|