Friday, November 5, 2010

"story of two worlds" - a walk in the park?!

as the lowdown / are reporting; paul (super strong) robinson has climbed "the dagger" in cresciano. congrats to him!!! as he posted he finally found pretty good beta and that it felt like climbing an 8A into an 8A to him. that is somewhat interesting news. i know that i used WAY to hard beta as i climbed "the dagger". may that was kind of "stupid", but i had so much fun climbing "my" crazy beta that i just did not wanted to change it. it was my own little challenge if i may coud link it that way - and (after some epic with cold fingers and going down once on the 4a exit) i did link it the crazy-way ;)

starting the crazy and hard 180-turn (with my "stupid" beta) to climb the second part of the "dagger" head first. GREAT, HARD FUN like that :) pic by angela wagner

anyway with my (to hard) beta for the first part the dagger i felt like climbing a (hard) 8B into a 7C/+. so despite knowing my beta for the first part was way too hard i am really wondering how (beta) one can bring that down to 8A???!!! BUT if there is a beta which brings the first part to the same difficulty as the second part, then i am super happy, as the second part really felt like a "walk in the park" for me (fits perfectly my compression-addiction). and as the sds shoud also be in the same grade (according to paul) THIS woud then be: 3 times a "walk in the park" for the full line - the "story of two worlds".

---> THAT means i am off to cresciano; i have to take a "walk in the park" ;)))

but there is a funny thing about "his math". according to paul: 8A + 8A = 8B. neverendingstory in avers (with the best beta/conditions) is supposed to be 8A + 7C+ = ???? what grade do we get by using that math? Hard 8A+ ?! but paul has 8B+ for neverendingstroy?! somehow that "math" does not really work - like many grading-stuff that does not work as it is supposed to... ;)

No comments:

Post a Comment