back on the full "fish-project"

as its cooling down in the ticino, i was psyched to try those funky moves of the full "fish-project" in chironico again. in spring i climbed the two parts isolated, but was not able to link them yet.

and it looks like this is going to be another story of how small changes in BETA can make all the diffrence - and well, climbing "ikarus/deadalus" may was a good "training" too ;)


"emi" going for the move i went down on link three times allready, pic by angela wagner

the result up today: i managed to get a new highpoint and climbed up to the last hard move of the full line twice a day. but this last move is the crux. its a cool (violent compression) but a HARD one if you come from all the way down there!!! i have to climb in that move with 90% freshness otherwise i just can not do it. at the moment i may am at 70/80%. therefore i have first to build up bit more of "resistance" for the 14 RAD, delicate and super powerfull moves in front. the climbing up to that last hard move is arround 8B/8B+ for itself and therefore it is great to be able to climb twice a day so far. nevertheless i woud have had preferred to climb it just once but then one move further up ;)

beside the resistance that i am building up there are two "discoveries" that give me REAL confidence for the full line:

FIRST: in spring i went down several times in the middle of the "keinfisch/kleinfisch"-part. finally i figured out just slightly diffrent beta, but it helped a lot and i did not went down on that moves anymore. like that i was for the first time able to climb all the way up to the last hard move of the full line.



the move which i finally "understand" :)  pic by angela wagner



SECOND: the starting-move was and is very hard for me. back in spring the move worked sometimes pretty ok and i was able to do it up to 2-3times a day. but then on the next session it happend that it took me 2hrs to stick it again. that was crazy and somehow frustrating and despite trying everything to figure out what details made the diffrence between sticking and failing i just did not get it. then suddenly last weekend i did UNDERSTAND what i have to do. nothing funky that time, just VERY pricise body positioning. that new "micro-beta" does not make the move easy, its still very hard for me. but now the move is at 70% and not at 10% anymore and like that i can save a lot of energy. energy that i need badly for that last move to get on top of that "fish".

to spice things up: after that last hard move, there is even a nasty mantle and a delicate slab waiting - you have to go for the full package - NO "candy's" will be served with that "fish" ;)

anyway its nice to see something "impossible" transforming into very "possible" once again :)