Thursday, April 7, 2016

FA of the sitdownstart to HERITAGE in valle bavona

nearly forgot about that one ;) what an amazing place this valle bavona is; its remote, located far north in the mountains in one of the large ticino-valleys. there are just a few small picturesque villages like sonlerto which is well known after dosage4. So not much there, but its littered with (huge) granite boulders and stunning lines. most of it its not climbable, choss or no holds. but then there are this famous climbs; dave grahams "coup de grace", "kings of sonlerto, nalles "off the wagon", doro's slab, elysium, trigonometry. All five start lines that will let your jaw drop for sure when you see them the first time in real "climbing"-life...

...and then there is "heritage" from super strong carlo traversi. Its not as freestanding as other lines, but nevertheless a stunning line with amazing climbing. really powerful, still subtle with the various body placements and with a great move to the lip followed by a few interesting slab-moves (especially with ice-cold fingers) a bit higher above the ground. to make it short; a real must. pure fun to climb and with some repetitions as well.

heritage has a "walk in start" (aka american ads). that means you take the starting-holds first and place the feet afterwards.

the walk-in-start from original start to "heritage"; 

after completing "heritage" from its original start i wanted to have a look at a proper sit-down-start. you can grab the same holds from sitting (on a small pad) and you have footholds straight underneath as well. but the footholds are of not much use, as you need your feet to the very right. the crux now is to bring your feet from the start-foot-holds to the very right where you need them for the big first move. after some puzzling and some sore abs-muscles cause of all the toe-hooking i found a very nice solution which needs some core strength. 

the sit-down-start to "heritage" - adds a few tricky and strenuous toe-moves - makes this beautiful boulder complete - brilliant climbing!!!

after falling once on the very top (already had done the big move in the pic below) and some punting (so typical for me) i was able to climb "heritage" with a proper sit down start. making this beautiful boulder even more complete. thanx to nico for the good times, saving my ass while taking a big fall and for the good view in the mornings:

the view from nico's place; as good as it gets :)

i did not use carlo's beta for the upper part, way too hard beta for me and with his beta for sure in the 8B+ area. with the "new" beta; soft (to stay en vogue) 8B will fit better for the classic heritage. the boulder is for sure harder from its sds then with its original start. 8B/+ ? whatever - its still soft, cause i am soooo strong and sooooo cool, and soooo brave.... and sooooooo hummer..... hahah - go and climb it. its pure fun :)

sticking the big crux move of "heritage, sds. valle bavona". 
(the slabby topout is quite interesting with icing-cold fingers as well)

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