15C in the shade at 5pm, 10%humidity and slight wind, it was perfect friction and conditions for the "highlander"!!! warming up on the standingstart it felt like climbing in a dream; my fingertips seemed to glue on the holds, to moves felt effortless like never before... i knew this would be MY day, if i just would have felt completley fresh. despite two full restdays i still felt bit tired from my desperate attempts on the "wet" "riont act" back at frankenjura. but the friction was so great i had to give it at least a go.
arriving at the first crux i could not believe why i was not sliding a tiny bit around on that bad sloper. climbing into the startingmoves of "traumland" (where i fell for 3weeks in a row, 3days a week) i just pulled through it nearly statically, even wondering while doing the move why i fell so many times here, everything was under control. then i was on my way into the real crux. climbed the tricky section without loosing any foothold, but i felt like i started sliding around a bit on the holds (no way to chalck), and that i was getting a bit tired - but two moves from the rescue-jugs no wonder... - i put my heel high up, could still feel the holds (no frozen fingers like last year) and this time i was 100% sure to pull through that last two moves. i gave all i had and went for that crimp and as my fingertips touched it, i slipped bit with my left hand (crumbling hold) and i felt like my hamstrings, under full pressure just gave way - instead of going for that last move and finishing that epic battle, i went down to the pads with instant and growing pain... - i instantly knew, that it was something serious...
|better don't heel here... can ruin your climbing-life....|
...next day it was on the the hospital to check how bad the injury was. and it turned out to be REALLY bad. mri showed that i managed to rip off 2 of 3 hamstrings. thats a very rare and serious injury that needs surgery (even if you want to continue with "regular" sports) and has a very long (up to 12months) and painful rehaprocess and there is no guarantee that i will be able to come back to where i was... i am scared as shit from that surgery and rehaprocess (weeks of just lying around and NO activity at all...) and wanted to avoid it at any price. but during research i had to learn it would be the only way to to give me a proper chance to climb and boulder again.
at least i have a proper diagnosis (many people are diagnosed wrongly for months or years!!!), but the problem is now to find an experienced surgeon (as the injury is so rare...) in the next two weeks as surgery should be as soon as possible to avoid any further damage and to secure a good result.
|they say here you can see the ripped off ligaments...???? |
i can't see but FEEL the damage at my but ALL day long...
i had some injuries before, but that one is the first really threatening one of the most important things in my life; to be able to MOVE.... but i can't change what happened. and as i have a chance to come back to where i was, and to be able to MOVE around again, i will give everything to catch that one chance for sure!!!
.... if i am lucky and surgery goes well, i will be back next summer or the summer after. i will not hurt myself again, as i have other (but harder) beta for THAT MOVE who sent me to surgery. i will train my ass off, i will be strong as never before and then i will cruise that "highlander" to the top - victory will taste as sweet as never before... - but the real battle has just begun and will be the next 6months for me... i am just hating myself that it always and everywhere has to be "the hard way...." - may i should a bit relax, i am just not 15 anymore... ;)
update monday: surgery is scheduled for thursday (thats good news as surgery should be asp to have good results)