scottish very strong men dave mac leod just sent his latest project at his home crag. it looks incredibly hard and super cool as well. he named the route "fight the feeling". the name is about the process he had to go trough to finally succeed. "fight the feeling" is perfectly what you have to battle with when you start to try very hard for quite some time. to cope with this ups and downs, weather, conditions, work, daily life, climbing a new highpoint just to fail way lower the next day... to think you get weaker and are unfit when you fail lower then your highpoint.... thats what climbing at your limit really means - from a certain point on it's more about your head then about the muscle power!
i really like to read his blog and i am thankful for his reminder, cause i am in the middle of a "fight the feeling" as well. is it a coincidence that a scottish climber named macleod brings that topic on the table when i am fighting to get my fat ass up my "highlanderproject" at sustenpass... - great timing for me for sure..., as i just last week was sure i may will never get strong enough and may will never climb that line at all... - i just was not able to climb the hard "traumlandmove" on link again. something felt wrong, but i did the move perfectly the same way as every time..., was i just too week, not in shape, bad conditions, too warm, to soft skin, not rested well....
|the nasty "crux-move" that suddenly felt impossible.... 2mm of rubber less on my right toe was the solution.... ;)|
back home while taking a shower and thinking back at my "highlander-sessions" from last fall i suddenly got what i was missing: last year i once tried that "crux-move" with a new shoe and was absolutely not able to do it anymore. i changed to my "warmup"-shoe and just did it easily. the new shoe just had too much rubber on the toe, it was too stiff and so i was unable to pull in myself in enough with my right toe to get weight on that nasty undercling.
the next day i went to my friend alex from the resoling-team at gecko, he sanded down the rubber till it was nicely thin and flexible. he was just laughing at me cause i was the first guy who wanted him to take rubber OFF a shoe... ;)
one day later, after work i went quickly up to sustenpass to have a look if i had been right about the rubber-beta. despite i still felt totally sore from the weekend-tries (warmupboulders felt horrible), the "traumland-cruxmove" went super good! finally it felt the same as last year and i climbed solid through the "highlander" 3times from 2hard moves in... - no need to say i had a BIG smile on my face - 2mm less of rubber was all i needed... crazy ;) on the one hand i was annoyed that i "wasted" 2weeks of climbing up there because of such a stupid error, on the other hand i was glad i remembered that important detail just in time before it may gets already too cold for me... so BACK IN THE GAME I AM.... ;)
|lovely sustenpass before the snow hit... ;)|