haunted by the wetness

finally the weather i hoped for and which i needed so much arrived.... since one month (or more) i am waiting for more then 2dry days in a row so that the cruxholds on the "highlander" would finally dry (they have been totally dry for ONE single day this season...). so the forecast looks great, like never before this season!!!

and its also getting warmer again and windy so that would be just PERFECT, especially as i have another week of holidays left. BUT there is this little nasty detail which is looking amazing in pictures, but not so amazing to climb at...

sustenpass area DUMPED with snow

this "mess" will make all these nice days that will come "useless", but if i am lucky we will get a dry and "warm" november so i may get another chance up there. otherwise i will have to wait for another 7months... so while that snow will melt i spend my remaining holidays with meeting friends, drinking nice beer (and some climbing as well ;) in the frankenjura.

i already tried this super nice compression-prow in spring and late summer, came very close, but two climbing days were just not enough for me to finish it up. so now i have more time and that should be all i need here - was what i was thinking before we arrived....

super nice compression-climbing on "riot act, 8B+" ---- if the holds for the righthand would be dry as in summer...

the weather is better then at home, but no need to say that i went already 6times down thanks to completely seeping (from the inside) wet holds.... it's a permanent struggle to climb faster then you slide out of the holds. i tried everything from a ton of toilet paper, alufoil, climbingtape, ducttape (is this cheating already?!). i am close on every try but keep sliding off the cruxhold before-, in-, and after the crux..., thats crazy because its a really BIG hold... -  but i will do it like the locals here; taking another beer - that helps no matter what problem you are struggling with... ;)