Tuesday, March 27, 2012

FREE your mind and SEND

but first i had to clear my mind.... i felt bit tired from all the work and the super hard pushing on the "fisch"... so how lucky am i to have that perfect little playground 30min from home!!! 

no pushing on your limits - just gliding effortless through white gold... (ok bit of hiking, but that was great as well) - half a day and 15'000feet of First-Tracks in kneedeep powpow.... BIIIIIG SMILE!!!

and then the next day my body felt pretty worked but i was keen on gripping on some gneiss, went down to ticino and SENT. well not the "fisch" (yet). but if you can't do the "hard" stuff you have to do some "easy" stuff from time to time... ;)

"FA" after break of "no mystery" (low).
(click to watch it BIG). pic ⓒ angelawagner.ch

so i went down to chironico and did the FA of "no mystery (low)" after the broken crux hold. i am very happy to have done such a nice little boulder. it was a nice process from not knowing if it still would be possible after the break, to understand the crux-move, to do the upper-start and finally, after some 8visits to send the full line.

the start is close to the ground but i like the moves that bring you perfectly to the BIG, powerful and delicate cruxmove, followed by a perfect top section. the moves are so flowing, i just can't get enough of them -  its really one of my favourites down there!!!
pic ⓒ angelawagner.ch

as for the grade i have no real clue. if you are strong and lucky you can do that move in flash-mode. if you are not lucky you can try it for weeks, catching every time the rail but not beeing able to control the swing (like me). despite it's MY style i went down over days on that move and because i was totally stretched out i had to be super precise. if you are taller it must be easy, if you are shorter SUPER hard... so its may around 8B/B+ for me? but last week my girlfriend "killed" me in the gym and as she climbs more in the 7A/B area then in the 8B's it can't be an 8the grade?! conclusion: it should be in between 7A+ and 8B+ - take what you like and have fun ;)

i did try the exit over "schule des lebens" as well. but it was just too warm for the razor crimps - looks like that has to wait for next winter - i will be back!


  1. niceeee! you look fit like hell on these pics. photoshop "muscle definition plugin" or lost some weight? ;-)

  2. haha, when you stretch out and twist everybody (ok nearly everybody) looks skinny - no worry, i am still 72kg, you cant see my old "soccer-legs" they have to be at least 30kg itself ;) hope to see you and your fam down here again! cheers, martin (of to the fisch ;)

  3. great newS Martin, you fuc***g beast!!! climbing 8b+ in rest days!!!
    get in!!!