|angela made this 6B - sloopy moves look easy - i had to struggle quite a bit...|
but i was exactly at the point i did not wanted to come again: climbing to the very last move one day and then not even be able to do the first 3moves on the next visit... mindgames start... but that happend before... but it kicks my ass every time again.. ;)
got my ass kicked at the brutal starting-moves...
analysing this "failure" (or searching for "excuses") i just found one possible reason: already on friday and saturday i nearly was unable to get up in the morning as i was just SUPER tired. during the day climbing in chironico if felt ok, but somehow never found that "extra-snap-tension" whatever you call it... it looks like i just have killed my system on wednesday. after beeing sick my system may was still "week" and while climbing into the last move of the "fisch", (and then from the sds again)i must have pushed it too far and just wrecked and destroyed myself. the following day was a 16hrs work-day - also not the best in terms of "recovery"...
so i am looking forward to recover fully as my cold seems to be finally over. and then i have to calm down myself; there are at least 8weeks in front of me to finish up the "fisch". all i need is ONE (perfect) day and i am pretty keen to catch that one!!!
to give you an idea of the moves that give me so much "pain"(... not because they are painful, but because they feel so f***ing hard to me...) here the start-sequence which consists of the 4 hardest moves i have ever done in a row... it feels like a "hard" 4move 8B for me. but as i am an old and fat boulder-pussy, its may just a "sooooft,real,new-school-cool-blabla" 8A ... ;)
bumping to the first crimp left hand.
(hard to get it perfect what makes the following moves even harder...)
the crimp you bump to with your left hand
going for the small indermediate... its STEEP and the bit hook at the right is BAD (despite looking great)
the small indermediate...
and with a LOT of bodytension: bumping into the big, but slopy slot - HARD to stay on the wall/roof and not loosing the heel and/or holds!!!
then a hard transition-move to bring your feet out and match hands.
hard to not loose the poor left hand crimp (pic 3).
and now better keep it together cause there is waiting a second 8B to be climbed... ;)