finally temps got down and today was a (nearly) perfect day. angela was up there with me, it was some 10C, sunny and bit windy. perfect friction. and unlike the last two weeks i did not not go down on the first crux anymore - i climbed (again) twice into the last two hard moves... that was "nice" - but i don't want to climb "nice", i want to f*ç&ing climb that "highlander" !!! i just don't get it. i can climb twice a day the 8B/+ part of "ikarus" but not once link two more moves, even if they are far from super hard, even if i feel not too tired at all...
what was NOT so nice today was what i did on my first go of the day, or better what i did not. it was may my best go EVER up there. it felt not super strong, but i felt like climbing with glue on my fingers. so sticky, so much friction. i climbed super solid into the second last move, just a bit cold fingers, everything perfect. then when taking out a toehook i got a bit too much of swing, free hanging on bad holds i had to pull hard to come back to the wall. that worked, i had to resort my left hand and i was ready for the second last hard move. its a bit a nasty one. a little deadpoint, if you miss the next crimp you go down... i nearly went once, twice, i waited (still don't know for what) and then i went down - not even trying the move - just like "ohhh, no i don't feel 100% solid, just 80%... so no, i will not even try it...". well it looks like i had the agression-level of an overcooked tomato at that point - LAME!!!
 |
| who is afraid of that move? well in the pic i was not, last time i was..., you can fall 1.50m down into two mondo-pads - soooo scary!!! may i will take a rope next time ;) pic by ikuko serata |
have you tried going up there on a rope to try just the last 2 or three moves again and again and again to get them super dialed?? keep the faith!
ReplyDeletewell, you don't need a rope, you just have to climb some moves ;) and yep, i have done the last three moves about 600times over the last 6years... and i can do them anytime... - but the problem is you have an 8B+ in your arms when you arrive from all the way down up there - thats kind of a problem - sometimes - at least for me ;)
ReplyDeletei had another, not much easier but safer beta. but i tore my hamstrings some 4weeks ago and was not able to use that beta anymore. until today, when i (after going down again up there) finally figured out some microbeta and found a way to heelhook in a way i don't have to use my hamstrings. bit sad i did not found that microbeta earlier... but i am glad i finally found my way up there - when i get up there again i will SEND - even if that will be next year...(the snow is coming again...)
great post Martin. I really appreciate your dedication!!! it will go.
ReplyDelete