Monday, October 17, 2011

more punting...

...i can not describe it any better - SHAME  ON ME!!! i really still don't no what happend?!

well the good news is that thanx to a lot of rain and some nice, warm days the snow is nearly gone. and susten is still ON!!! crazy how fast the snow melted!

finally temps got down and today was a (nearly) perfect day. angela was up there with me, it was some 10C, sunny and bit windy. perfect friction. and unlike the last two weeks i did not not go down on the first crux anymore - i climbed (again) twice into the last two hard moves... that was "nice" - but i don't want to climb "nice", i want to f*ç&ing climb that "highlander" !!! i just don't get it. i can climb twice a day the 8B/+ part of "ikarus" but not once link two more moves, even if they are far from super hard, even if i feel not too tired at all...

what was NOT so nice today was what i did on my first go of the day, or better what i did not. it was may my best go EVER up there. it felt not super strong, but i felt like climbing with glue on my fingers. so sticky, so much friction. i climbed super solid into the second last move, just a bit cold fingers, everything perfect. then when taking out a toehook i got a bit too much of swing, free hanging on bad holds i had to pull hard to come back to the wall. that worked, i had to resort my left hand and i was ready for the second last hard move. its a bit a nasty one. a little deadpoint, if you miss the next crimp you go down... i nearly went once, twice, i waited (still don't know for what) and then i went down - not even trying the move - just like "ohhh, no i  don't feel 100% solid, just 80%... so no, i will not even try it...". well it looks like i had the agression-level of an overcooked tomato at that point - LAME!!!

who is afraid of that move? well in the pic i was not, last time i was..., you can fall 1.50m down into two mondo-pads - soooo scary!!! may i will take a rope next time ;) pic by ikuko serata
standing on the pads i was pissed about myself to say at least, i don't mind going down - but giving up just like that is something i did not know i am able to do: NO, NO, NO, NO, NO!!! then on my second go the aggression-mode was back on. i felt tired from the very first move, but as to show me again what i just threw away on my first go i climbed exactly into the same position as on my first go... when i felt 10times better... nice JOKE.... HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!


  1. have you tried going up there on a rope to try just the last 2 or three moves again and again and again to get them super dialed?? keep the faith!

  2. well, you don't need a rope, you just have to climb some moves ;) and yep, i have done the last three moves about 600times over the last 6years... and i can do them anytime... - but the problem is you have an 8B+ in your arms when you arrive from all the way down up there - thats kind of a problem - sometimes - at least for me ;)

    i had another, not much easier but safer beta. but i tore my hamstrings some 4weeks ago and was not able to use that beta anymore. until today, when i (after going down again up there) finally figured out some microbeta and found a way to heelhook in a way i don't have to use my hamstrings. bit sad i did not found that microbeta earlier... but i am glad i finally found my way up there - when i get up there again i will SEND - even if that will be next year...(the snow is coming again...)

  3. great post Martin. I really appreciate your dedication!!! it will go.