Friday, October 7, 2011

the FA of "deadalus direct" - or "world class VS local punter"

i missed my last opportunity at susten and now the snowfalls have started - game over for highlander...

sustenarea today, and there will come a LOT more snow down over the weekend

...while i continued punting around on the last moves of the highlander-project for three weeks i had to "re"-learn how important the perfect conditions up there are (for me). one week ago i climbed twice to the last moves in a day and yesterday i was not even able to climb once through the first crux of the project (which is 6moves lower then the highpoint). and that despite beeing super rested and feeling strong. crazy in one way. but coming down to the car and seeing it totally wet from the humidity things were somehow not so crazy anymore.

beautiful sustenpass area before the snow. pic ©
nevertheless dai koyamada did not seem too impressed from the sub-optimal-conditions. "trained" from the heat in the ticino (where he is working on the lowstart to story of two worlds) he did the FA of "deadalus direct, 8B+/8C".

some days ago i suggested to dai, that he should try (do) this project as its a wonderful line and some good (stamina-)training for his ticino-project as well. and so he went and sent - NICE ONE!!!

dai koyamada on the FA of "deadalus direct, 8B+/8C", sustenpass. pic ©

i asked dai to give a short summary from his blog-entry and drop me a few lines about his newest FA. and this is what dai has to say:

"I succeeded in a first ascent of "Deadalus direct", an open project showed by a friend, Martin Keller, on the 3rd of October. It was really hot when I arrived there so I worked on my beta a little and I started my try again in the evening after taking hours of break.

As I felt something wrong with my right wrist and I found the crux, the undercling, of the Ikarus was really hard. The "direct part" moves are : after a dyno, take a crimp with left-hand after an intermediate, hook right foot toe and heel then take a pinching hold with right hand then a little crossing move to the jug. It was harder for me than an original cause I had to do some more moves after finishing "Ikarus"  without a rest. It was a good line.
I thank Martin for giving me a chance to try this beautiful project."
discussing beta. pic ©
and that seems to be (one off) the difference between a world class climber and a local punter: 

no punting - just do it!

sounds easy ;) and i WILL do my best next year. so i will BE BACK - .... and what would a "highlander" be without an EPIC battle? so from the "epic-perspective" everything goes "perfect" for me ... ;)
now i am off to the ticino. from snowy susten its just another 30min drive through the gotthardo-tunnel and you arrive in sunny, dry ticino. the northwind (who brings the snow to the north) brings sun, but colder temps and wind to ticino - PERFECT - i love swizzy!

a 30min ride north and it snows and rains... so i am off to sunny, windy ticino!


  1. hey Martin!!! shame about your project, but thank you for always being so positive in every circumstances, I have a lot to learn.

  2. ...yep SHAME on me ;)

    well i am not always soooo positive - but i try my best.
    my girlfriend stated once that i write just about failure in my blog..., but well thats bouldering-life when you are really testing your LIMITS. but for me its not "failure". i really like the "creative" process of the pieces coming together very much, often even more then an actual send which is sometimes more like "just finish the work"... especially because at a certain point i often "know" that i will climb a problem. (and i am 99% right till now about that). but its also interesting to see what everything can happen (or goes wrong) till you may finally succeed...