Friday, February 25, 2011

new rock

it was time to to check out some new rock (well "new" to me). i allways wanted to visti the "oetztal-area" once for bouldering but somehow never made it. last week i had the chance for a short 2day visit and i had GREAT FUN. it was all dry and cold. nice friction!
"tumpen"-ambiente, little magic wood ;) pic by: boulderschof
feeded with infos from the very kind manuel (aka the boulderschof), i explored the woods arround tumpen/habichen and met some nice people. compared to the ticino or magic wood its a small area and the stone is more "skin-eating" (sharp). But there are some VERY NICE lines in every grades AND there is some great foooood too be had... ;)

first day i checked out the following lines:
-reaggea jamming
topo says 7A+, but i did a pretty hard low start that felt more like 7C - may i was just too stupid and/or can't jam..?!)
-demon roof
SUCH a PERFECT line - a 7B-compression-bulge, BEST!!! onsighted it - but you cant cant go really wrong on that one... - a MUST... ;)

christian in "demon roof" - SICK LINE. pic by bernhard ruech
-crocodile, stand
super happy to have met some folk cause you need some pads for this GREAT compression 7C. thanks to my spotters i was able to flash that one.
-crocodile, sit
a bit narrow and dabby - BUT climbs GREAT!!! some burly moves into the stand. second go. in the 8A-area. perfectly my style, need more of that - GREAT!

manuel going for the crux-pinch in "crocodile" - such a GOOOOOOOD move. pic by bernhard ruech

second day (again i had to discover i SUCK on a second climbing day... ;)

-did some nice classics for warm up
-got shot down on the last hard move on a flash-burn (and the next 5trys) in the "hooky" and great - "In bocca al lupo", 7C/7C+. figured then out some better beta but was to tired to finish up... (manuel sending it in good style in the vid below)

-checked out with manuel and bernhard the KILLER-LINE of "die perfekte welle", 8A+. thanx to them for sharing beta!!! they both looked strong and nearly sent the stand (manuel) and the sit (bernhard). the sds is just climbed by bernd zangerl yet - (hard) 8B-ish?! i had some fun checking out the the GREAT moves - and CAN NOT wait to return. unfortunatley i got sick (noro-virus) a day later and was not able to return yet. but i will be BACK for sure - hopfully there will not be to much snow the next days - there are some LINES left i MUST climb!

THE PERFECT LINE of "die perfekt welle". the right arete - GREAT MOVES - the BEST :) pic by: boulderschof

and last but not least the nice food to be had in austria - (one of) the reason why i will never boulder REALLY HARD - but life its too short to not enjoy NICE food - and i rather climb a grade less but can eat delicious stuff like this all the time when i want to... - even with 33 - *mampf* ;))

"kässpätzle" and a "weizen" - gives you energy back instantly ;)

"schnitzel" (33cm!!!) and "pommes" (the "kaiserschmarren" is missing here)